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		<title>The best site about Psoriasis in Portuguese language</title>
		<link>http://maois101.org/maios/the-best-site-about-psoriasis-in-portuguese-language-295652.html</link>
		<comments>http://maois101.org/maios/the-best-site-about-psoriasis-in-portuguese-language-295652.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Feb 2003 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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This message was sent for the benefit of those who speak and read  Portuguese. All the other users are also invited to visit the  www.psoriase.org site. You&#8217;re all wellcome!  Caro amigo(a):  Venho por este meio convid
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h4><strong>Question:</strong></h4>
<p>This message was sent for the benefit of those who speak and read  Portuguese. All the other users are also invited to visit the  www.psoriase.org site. You&#8217;re all wellcome!  Caro amigo(a):  Venho por este meio convid</p>
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		<title>Insomnia</title>
		<link>http://maois101.org/phenelzine-nardil/insomnia-333276.html</link>
		<comments>http://maois101.org/phenelzine-nardil/insomnia-333276.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Nov 2002 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Phenelzine (Nardil)]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Question:
Any suggestions for one on Lithium&#44; Nardil and Respiradol for past two  years who suddenly wakes up every two hours and can&#8217;t get back to sleep?  Valerian has helped some. 

Response:
I thought I had bipolar disorder&#44; but it turned out to be hypoglycemia (low  blood sugar.) Both can cause insomnia. The low [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h4><strong>Question:</strong></h4>
<p>Any suggestions for one on Lithium&#44; Nardil and Respiradol for past two  years who suddenly wakes up every two hours and can&#8217;t get back to sleep?  Valerian has helped some. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>I thought I had bipolar disorder&#44; but it turned out to be hypoglycemia (low  blood sugar.) Both can cause insomnia. The low blood sugar causes the adrenal  glands to work overtime&#44; and the adrenelin keeps you awake. If you are really  manic than you should be on lithium&#44; which calms you down and makes it less  likely you will fall into a severe depression after the manic phase. (However  if you have been misdiagnosed and have hypoglycemia instead of bipolar  disorder the lithium will make it worse.) When I have an adrenalin rush I find  that a cup of chamomile tea with a valerian pill helps me a lot. If you would  like more information about herbs for insomnia feel free to contact me. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>ok&#44; I just heard that coffee sometimes is useful when one carefully takes it  in right amount. It helps in constipation too esp. when there is bloody in  stool. Coffee can help to rush out the wasted stuffs after we eat it without  letting it dry very fast. Water&#44; no matter how large in amount we take won&#8217;t  help preventing constipation much because intestines takes in alot of water&#44;  leaving the wastes dry and making it harder to pass out. <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' />  Fruit esp paper &amp;  tomato also help. So does cereal etc.  Lydia </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>This really isn&#8217;t all that strange. They give hyperactive and ADD kids stimulants to  calm them down. My mother-in-law treated my brother-in-law with coffee after Ritalin  really screwed him up. High caffiene and sugar sodas calm me down also.  Kimber </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>- Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt; Hi&#44; My name is Tina&#44; I&#8217;m into drinking very strong coffee to. Alot of it . Think I&#8217;m  &gt; hooked and high of the stuff. Well I guess it&#8217;s better than being addicted on street  &gt; drugs. I&#8217;ve been there once already so compared to the drugs&#44; coffee is a harmless  &gt; and very effective way to still let you experience that wonderful rush feeling and it  &gt; won&#8217;t kill you. At least I don&#8217;t think. Are you BP&#44; and are you taking meds? I am.  &gt; Anyhow&#44; if you need an extra friend to write to&#44;I&#8217;ll be here. Take care Robert.Hope  &gt; to hear from you. Bye.  &gt; Gothic female&#44; Tina > &gt;By the way&#44; what is espresso? > &nbsp;Its like super coffee&#44; It tastes like about like double > strength coffee left on the pot for about 4 hours. <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  > It`s quite good actually </p>
<p>I think most BP&#8217;s have an abnormally strong reaction to coffee. &nbsp;I  remember always wondering why people thought coke was so great since  coffee did the same thing and wasn&#8217;t as uncomfortable.  Right before I got on meds when I was in this horrible mixed state but  still sleeping some&#44; a lot of coffee in the evening would kick me into  euphoric manic till dawn with a price to pay the next day. &nbsp;But it was  so tempting that I can see how people get addicted to crack&#44; to get so  high that I no longer hear that noise in my head because I&#8217;m too busy  dancing around and kicking the walls for fun.  Aurora </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>I think being sedated by stimulants is an ADD symptom. &nbsp;Certainly  doesn&#8217;t happen for me unless I&#8217;m really manic. &nbsp;But then it&#8217;s probably  the milk in the latte that&#8217;s doing it. &nbsp;Don&#8217;t ask me why I&#8217;m ordering a  latte when I&#8217;m really manic&#44; but it was good for me to take in some  nutrition.  Aurora  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Cinda&#44; I thought the more coffee we drink&#44; the more caffeine would be built > inside us and probably even in our brain. Don&#8217;t know. I once drank coffee for > burning midnite oil often before till I experienced a sudden of emotional > numbness&#44; coffee seemed not to work anymore but only made me twice tired. > &gt; I don&#8217;t know about other people but I can&#44; and do&#44; drink coffee and Coke > &gt; just before bedtime. &nbsp;In fact&#44; I use them to wash down the meds. &nbsp;Then I > &gt; lay down and go right to sleep&#8211;not sleeping is not one of my > &gt; problems&#8211;this is not a result of the meds&#44; either. &nbsp;I did this before I > &gt; was diagnosed as well. > Isn&#8217;t water the best drink? Let&#8217;s discuss that. > &#8212;  &gt; I have experienced sedative effects from caffeine as well. &nbsp;when i was younger i  &gt; would wake up and not be able to fall asleep again; &nbsp;i would chug a whole can of  &gt; mountain dew and fall right to sleep. &nbsp;i found this paradox amazing. &nbsp;even now&#44;  &gt; if i drink something with caffeine and sugar (not just caffeine&#44; like coffee) it  &gt; has a sedating effect.  &gt; I don&#8217;t think anyone would argue about water being the best drink&#44; though it&#8217;s  &gt; never put me to sleep.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; About Caffeine&#44; I can drink 3 or more cups of coffee and fall asleep. &nbsp;It&#8217;s  &gt; usually when I&#8217;m on Lithium but I don&#8217;t feel drowsy with caffeine when I&#8217;m  &gt; not on my regular dose of Lamictal. &nbsp;I don&#8217;t know if I feel &quot;Numb&quot; but I do  &gt; feel the same as I do when I&#8217;m on Kolonipin (sp?). &nbsp;Drowsy feeling. </p>
<p>Right after it started working I found that I could give up caffeine&#44; I  guess it had been numbing the white noise somewhat&#44; now that I think  about it that&#8217;s what I used it for. &nbsp;After I was brought down from this  mixed state Li made me so tired that I needed a little kick-start Now I  am mostly on Lamictal and have more energy but still like a little  caffeine here and there&#44; but I do notice the beginnings of hypomania  creeping in. &nbsp;Ah&#44; temptation.  Aurora </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>I too am a java lover. &nbsp;I drink almost two pots of coffee a day.. &nbsp;For awhile  there&#44; I really needed it in the morning to offsett the sluggishness from my  meds. &nbsp;Now&lt; I just crave it all the time. &nbsp;  &nbsp; &gt; Isn&#8217;t water the best drink? Let&#8217;s discuss that.&gt;&gt; &#8212; </p>
<p>For all of you that can get past the coffee&#44; WATER is the best thing for you.  Eight or more glasses a day should be considered minimum. &nbsp;You need the water  to flush your system of impurities. &nbsp;It also helps to maintain a healthy  weight. &nbsp;It makes you feel fuller&#44; so then you eat less&#44;right(?). &nbsp;Coffee or  caffiene beverages are not considered part of your eight glasses a day  becauseof the negative effects of caffeine. &nbsp;Caffiene as a stimulant&#44; also  stimulates hunger. &nbsp;  Drinking water is good for your skin. &nbsp;It is easier on your kidneys than  caffienated bev.  You just need it. &nbsp;As part of your eight glasses of water a day you can  substitute natural juices and should have &nbsp;your milk too as a source of calcium  for bone development and maintenance. &nbsp;A great beverage is orange juice with  calcium added. &nbsp;You get your vitamin c&#44; calcium and liquid. &nbsp;If you drink  orange juice with a meal it increases the absorption of &nbsp;iron &#44;  calcium and other important vitamims and minerals in the food that may be lost  otherwise . Never underestimate the power of good nutrition and your health. &nbsp;I  think I will go get myself a tall sparkling glass of ice water  now&#8212;hint&#8212;hint&#8230;pam </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Exactly&#44; I can defently hear you. I can relate to what you wrote. Sometimes theres  ocassional anger with that rage feeling for me when I drink heavenly strong hyperspeed  coffee. Straight from the bean&#44; grind then brew. Finally add some ice&#44; and enjoy.  OOOOAhhhhh soooo darn good!! Fill it to the brim and I&#8217;m on my way to a different  demention. A galaxy far far away. You get the idea. Bye.  Always here if anyone cares to write. In this Sanitarium&#8230;&#8230;.I clutch onto nothingness&#44;  &#8230;..Tina  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Hi&#44; My name is Tina&#44; I&#8217;m into drinking very strong coffee to. Alot of it . Think I&#8217;m > hooked and high of the stuff. Well I guess it&#8217;s better than being addicted on street > drugs. I&#8217;ve been there once already so compared to the drugs&#44; coffee is a harmless > and very effective way to still let you experience that wonderful rush feeling and it > won&#8217;t kill you. At least I don&#8217;t think. Are you BP&#44; and are you taking meds? I am. > Anyhow&#44; if you need an extra friend to write to&#44;I&#8217;ll be here. Take care Robert.Hope > to hear from you. Bye. > Gothic female&#44; Tina > &gt; &gt;By the way&#44; what is espresso? > &gt; &nbsp;Its like super coffee&#44; It tastes like about like double > &gt; strength coffee left on the pot for about 4 hours. <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  > &gt; It`s quite good actually  &gt; I think most BP&#8217;s have an abnormally strong reaction to coffee. &nbsp;I  &gt; remember always wondering why people thought coke was so great since  &gt; coffee did the same thing and wasn&#8217;t as uncomfortable.  &gt; Right before I got on meds when I was in this horrible mixed state but  &gt; still sleeping some&#44; a lot of coffee in the evening would kick me into  &gt; euphoric manic till dawn with a price to pay the next day. &nbsp;But it was  &gt; so tempting that I can see how people get addicted to crack&#44; to get so  &gt; high that I no longer hear that noise in my head because I&#8217;m too busy  &gt; dancing around and kicking the walls for fun.  &gt; Aurora  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>&gt;By the way&#44; what is espresso? </p>
<p>&nbsp;Its like super coffee&#44; It tastes like about like double  strength coffee left on the pot for about 4 hours. <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />   It`s quite good actually  Remove the **** for your emailing pleasure </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Hi&#44; My name is Tina&#44; I&#8217;m into drinking very strong coffee to. Alot of it . Think I&#8217;m  hooked and high of the stuff. Well I guess it&#8217;s better than being addicted on street  drugs. I&#8217;ve been there once already so compared to the drugs&#44; coffee is a harmless  and very effective way to still let you experience that wonderful rush feeling and it  won&#8217;t kill you. At least I don&#8217;t think. Are you BP&#44; and are you taking meds? I am.  Anyhow&#44; if you need an extra friend to write to&#44;I&#8217;ll be here. Take care Robert.Hope  to hear from you. Bye.  Gothic female&#44; Tina  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text ->By the way&#44; what is espresso?  &gt; &nbsp;Its like super coffee&#44; It tastes like about like double  &gt; strength coffee left on the pot for about 4 hours. <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />   &gt; It`s quite good actually  &gt; Remove the **** for your emailing pleasure  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>- Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt; Cinda&#44; I thought the more coffee we drink&#44; the more caffeine would be built  &gt; inside us and probably even in our brain. Don&#8217;t know. I once drank coffee for  &gt; burning midnite oil often before till I experienced a sudden of emotional  &gt; numbness&#44; coffee seemed not to work anymore but only made me twice tired. > I don&#8217;t know about other people but I can&#44; and do&#44; drink coffee and Coke > just before bedtime. &nbsp;In fact&#44; I use them to wash down the meds. &nbsp;Then I > lay down and go right to sleep&#8211;not sleeping is not one of my > problems&#8211;this is not a result of the meds&#44; either. &nbsp;I did this before I > was diagnosed as well.  &gt; Isn&#8217;t water the best drink? Let&#8217;s discuss that.  &gt; &#8212; </p>
<p>I have experienced sedative effects from caffeine as well. &nbsp;when i was younger i  would wake up and not be able to fall asleep again; &nbsp;i would chug a whole can of  mountain dew and fall right to sleep. &nbsp;i found this paradox amazing. &nbsp;even now&#44;  if i drink something with caffeine and sugar (not just caffeine&#44; like coffee) it  has a sedating effect.  I don&#8217;t think anyone would argue about water being the best drink&#44; though it&#8217;s  never put me to sleep. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>How exactly do you experience these sedative effects from caffeine ? I  have noticed that the `white head-noise&#8217; feeling&#44; which definitely makes  me agitated and restless decreases upon drinking a few cups of coffee&#44;  making me feel more relaxed (maybe pleasantly numb ?). I do not experience  caffeine as a real sedative&#44; though.  GreetinX  &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;X  &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;X  &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Bas  p.s: Still wanting to be comfortably numbed . . .  &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; DE &nbsp;DIGITALE &nbsp;STAD </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>About Caffeine&#44; I can drink 3 or more cups of coffee and fall asleep. &nbsp;It&#8217;s  usually when I&#8217;m on Lithium but I don&#8217;t feel drowsy with caffeine when I&#8217;m  not on my regular dose of Lamictal. &nbsp;I don&#8217;t know if I feel &quot;Numb&quot; but I do  feel the same as I do when I&#8217;m on Kolonipin (sp?). &nbsp;Drowsy feeling.  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt; How exactly do you experience these sedative effects from caffeine ? I  &gt; have noticed that the `white head-noise&#8217; feeling&#44; which definitely makes  &gt; me agitated and restless decreases upon drinking a few cups of coffee&#44;  &gt; making me feel more relaxed (maybe pleasantly numb ?). I do not experience  &gt; caffeine as a real sedative&#44; though.  &gt; GreetinX  &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;X  &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;X  &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Bas  &gt; p.s: Still wanting to be comfortably numbed . . .  &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; DE &nbsp;DIGITALE &nbsp;STAD  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>&gt; The average cup of coffee has about 100mg of caffeine&#44; a cup of espresso has  &gt; about 3 -4 times that. &nbsp;If someone (like I used to) drinks 3 espressos in the  &gt; morning before work&#44; and then 2 pots at work&#44; they have consumed about 2000mg  &gt; of caffeine. &nbsp;I thought that drinking all that coffee before 11 am was okay.  &gt; Well&#44; he explained that caffeine has a half life of 8 hours. &nbsp;That means that  &gt; eight hours later I still had 1000mg of caffeine in my system&#44; and 8 hours  &gt; after that I still had 500mg. &nbsp;That is the equvalent of 5 cups of coffee.  &gt; Then&#44; less than 8 hours after that&#44; I would start the cycle all over again.  &gt; Didn&#8217;t take me too long to figure out why I wasn&#8217;t sleeping so well at night. </p>
<p>One more thing &#8211; how come the coffee no longer had no effect on me but only  leaving me twice tired the last time after frequent coffee-drink for late  studying? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>I am not too sure the exact cause(s) of insomnia.  Are they the worries or/and caffeine that found in coffee&#44; tea?  Lydia </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; I am not too sure the exact cause(s) of insomnia.  &gt; Are they the worries or/and caffeine that found in coffee&#44; tea?  &gt; Lydia </p>
<p>Could be either&#44; could also be brain chemistry.  Aurora </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; I am not too sure the exact cause(s) of insomnia.  &gt; Are they the worries or/and caffeine that found in coffee&#44; tea?  &gt; Lydia </p>
<p>I don&#8217;t know about other people but I can&#44; and do&#44; drink coffee and Coke  just before bedtime. &nbsp;In fact&#44; I use them to wash down the meds. &nbsp;Then I  lay down and go right to sleep&#8211;not sleeping is not one of my  problems&#8211;this is not a result of the meds&#44; either. &nbsp;I did this before I  was diagnosed as well.  Cinda  Take care of yourself&#44; you&#8217;re worth it. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Cinda&#44; I thought the more coffee we drink&#44; the more caffeine would be built  inside us and probably even in our brain. Don&#8217;t know. I once drank coffee for  burning midnite oil often before till I experienced a sudden of emotional  numbness&#44; coffee seemed not to work anymore but only made me twice tired.  &gt; I don&#8217;t know about other people but I can&#44; and do&#44; drink coffee and Coke  &gt; just before bedtime. &nbsp;In fact&#44; I use them to wash down the meds. &nbsp;Then I  &gt; lay down and go right to sleep&#8211;not sleeping is not one of my  &gt; problems&#8211;this is not a result of the meds&#44; either. &nbsp;I did this before I  &gt; was diagnosed as well. </p>
<p>Isn&#8217;t water the best drink? Let&#8217;s discuss that.  &#8212;  http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/5620/ </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>My doctor explained the way caffeine works like this:  The average cup of coffee has about 100mg of caffeine&#44; a cup of espresso has  about 3 -4 times that. &nbsp;If someone (like I used to) drinks 3 espressos in the  morning before work&#44; and then 2 pots at work&#44; they have consumed about 2000mg  of caffeine. &nbsp;I thought that drinking all that coffee before 11 am was okay.  Well&#44; he explained that caffeine has a half life of 8 hours. &nbsp;That means that  eight hours later I still had 1000mg of caffeine in my system&#44; and 8 hours  after that I still had 500mg. &nbsp;That is the equvalent of 5 cups of coffee.  Then&#44; less than 8 hours after that&#44; I would start the cycle all over again.  Didn&#8217;t take me too long to figure out why I wasn&#8217;t sleeping so well at night.  Shannan </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>&gt; The average cup of coffee has about 100mg of caffeine&#44; a cup of espresso has </p>
<p>By the way&#44; what is espresso?  &gt; about 3 -4 times that. &nbsp;If someone (like I used to) drinks 3 espressos in the </p>
<p>3 packets you mean?  &gt; morning before work&#44; and then 2 pots at work&#44; they have consumed about 2000mg  &gt; of caffeine. &nbsp;I thought that drinking all that coffee before 11 am was okay.  &gt; Well&#44; he explained that caffeine has a half life of 8 hours. &nbsp;That means that  &gt; eight hours later I still had 1000mg of caffeine in my system&#44; and 8 hours  &gt; after that I still had 500mg. &nbsp;That is the equvalent of 5 cups of coffee.  &gt; Then&#44; less than 8 hours after that&#44; I would start the cycle all over again.  &gt; Didn&#8217;t take me too long to figure out why I wasn&#8217;t sleeping so well at night. </p>
<p>wow!  Lydia </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Cover songs</title>
		<link>http://maois101.org/maios/cover-songs-205814.html</link>
		<comments>http://maois101.org/maios/cover-songs-205814.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Jul 2002 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[MAIOs]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://maois.org/uncategorized/cover-songs-205814.html</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question:
Ozzy doing &#34;Staying alive&#34;? 
 &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> All of you people know how much I love the covers. It&#8217;s a wonderful way  to > try different rhythm patterns&#44; different styles&#8230; > ABBA revisited by Helloween&#8230; > Ozzy Osbourne by Pat Boone&#44; and so on&#8230; > And the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h4><strong>Question:</strong></h4>
<p>Ozzy doing &quot;Staying alive&quot;? </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> All of you people know how much I love the covers. It&#8217;s a wonderful way  to > try different rhythm patterns&#44; different styles&#8230; > ABBA revisited by Helloween&#8230; > Ozzy Osbourne by Pat Boone&#44; and so on&#8230; > And the last one I found is the tribute to Deep Purple by TM Stevens. > OH&#8230; MY&#8230; GOD ! > Ever played Smoke on the water with a distorted bass sound ? (and a  slight > wah ?) The verses are propelled by a wonderful slap rhytm&#44; and a few  &gt; touches > of guitar. > Child in time a la reggae&#8230; > I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it.  &gt; Not at all.I&#8217;m partial to inventive covers myself&#44;as long as they add  &gt; something to the original instead of murdering it.I&#8217;ve got two different  &gt; covers of one of my favourite Richard Thompson songs &#8216;Wall of Death&#8217;.One  by  &gt; REM and one by a country and western duo.They&#8217;re both good imo.And then  &gt; there&#8217;s Paul Young&#8217;s excellent job of Marvin Gayes &#8216;Wherever I Lay My  Hat&#8217;&#44;  &gt; with Pino featuring.  &gt; As for different styles&#44;the best example I can give is &#8216;Powderfinger&#8217; by  the  &gt; Cowboy Junkies.Compared to Neil Young thrashing away on the original&#44;it&#8217;s  &gt; almost a different song.  &gt; There is a dark side though &#8211; Rolf Harris doing &#8216;Stairway to Heaven&#8217;&#8230;  &gt; SR  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; And since it&#8217;s from the 80&#8217;s a lot of the tracks are  &gt; dancable&#44; too. </p>
<p>But I refuse to wear Spandex.  &#8212;  Rik Osborne  &lt;http://www.phase42.net/&gt;  &quot;What are we lookin&#8217; for? Mo&#8217; Bass! Mo&#8217; Bass!&quot; &#8212; UTFO </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Heavy Metal or no metal at all!  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Manowar is amazing. Death to false metal!!  &gt; Remember&#44; &quot;Other bands play. Manowar kills.&quot;  &gt; &#8212;  &gt; Rik Osborne  &gt; &lt;http://www.phase42.net/&gt;  &gt; &quot;What are we lookin&#8217; for? Mo&#8217; Bass! Mo&#8217; Bass!&quot; &#8212; UTFO  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Someone out there needs to start covering some 80&#8217;s &quot;Slease metal&quot; &#8211; Faster  Pussycat&#44; Dirty Looks&#44; Bang Tango&#44; stuff like that. &nbsp;Great tunes&#44; more  attitude than you can stand&#44; a lyrics that will make everyone look at you  and say&#44; &quot;What???&quot; &nbsp;And since it&#8217;s from the 80&#8217;s a lot of the tracks are  dancable&#44; too.  &#8212;  Nick Cassimatis  There is more than one way to skin a cat&#44; so you&#8217;ll go through a lot of cats  figuring them all out. </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>I really dig some of Govt Mule&#8217;s covers&#8230;She Said&#44; She Said and 30 Days in  the Hole especially  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt; All of you people know how much I love the covers. It&#8217;s a wonderful way to  &gt; try different rhythm patterns&#44; different styles&#8230;  &gt; ABBA revisited by Helloween&#8230;  &gt; Ozzy Osbourne by Pat Boone&#44; and so on&#8230;  &gt; And the last one I found is the tribute to Deep Purple by TM Stevens.  &gt; OH&#8230; MY&#8230; GOD !  &gt; Ever played Smoke on the water with a distorted bass sound ? (and a slight  &gt; wah ?) The verses are propelled by a wonderful slap rhytm&#44; and a few touches  &gt; of guitar.  &gt; Child in time a la reggae&#8230;  &gt; I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it.  &gt; &#8212;  &gt; Henry  &gt; I don&#8217;t know anything about music. In my line you don&#8217;t have to. &#8211;Elvis  &gt; Presley  &gt; Improvisation: the art of thinking and performing music  &gt; simultaneously. &#8211;Grove Dictionary of Music (1954)  &gt; You can reach me at henryhpaul at wanadoo dot fr  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Manowar is amazing. Death to false metal!!  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Years ago I heard a rumor of a Stan Kenton Big Band album where they play > the music of Richard Wagner but I&#8217;ve never seen any mention of it on any > discography. I don&#8217;t suppose anyone can shed any light on this? Or is it > just an urban myth?  &gt; There&#8217;s a rather obscure metal band called Manowar that makes music heavily  &gt; influenced by Wagner.  &gt; Incidentally&#44; this group has an astounding bass player&#44; Joey DeMaio. Ever  &gt; hear somebody play classical guitar on an 8-string bass? He did bass solo  &gt; renditions of the William Tell Overture (&quot;William&#8217;s Tale&quot;) and Flight of the  &gt; Bumblebee (&quot;Sting of the Bumblebee&quot;).  &gt; Rik  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; Manowar is amazing. Death to false metal!! </p>
<p>Remember&#44; &quot;Other bands play. Manowar kills.&quot;  &#8212;  Rik Osborne  &lt;http://www.phase42.net/&gt;  &quot;What are we lookin&#8217; for? Mo&#8217; Bass! Mo&#8217; Bass!&quot; &#8212; UTFO </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt;All of you people know how much I love the covers. It&#8217;s a wonderful way to  &gt;try different rhythm patterns&#44; different styles&#8230;  &gt;ABBA revisited by Helloween&#8230;  &gt;Ozzy Osbourne by Pat Boone&#44; and so on&#8230;  &gt;And the last one I found is the tribute to Deep Purple by TM Stevens.  &gt;OH&#8230; MY&#8230; GOD !  &gt;Ever played Smoke on the water with a distorted bass sound ? (and a slight  &gt;wah ?) The verses are propelled by a wonderful slap rhytm&#44; and a few touches  &gt;of guitar.  &gt;Child in time a la reggae&#8230;  &gt;I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it. </p>
<p>I&#8217;m all for people twisting song&#44; making them their own. Although if  there&#8217;s one thing that *really* annoys me&#44; its bands who cover song  EXACTLY THE SAME. Don&#8217;t get me wrong I&#8217;m not talking about little band  our new bands&#44; but bands who are fairly big anyway.  &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Cheers  &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;~chris~  &#8212;  &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &quot;A song is a beautiful lie&quot;  &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; ~Idlewild~ </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>I don&#8217;t know who it was but I heard an interesting cover of &quot;Hush&quot; the other  day while I was in Staples office supply.  &#8212;  Bud LeCompte  http://budlecompte.com </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; All of you people know how much I love the covers. It&#8217;s a wonderful way to  &gt; try different rhythm patterns&#44; different styles&#8230;  &gt; ABBA revisited by Helloween&#8230;  &gt; Ozzy Osbourne by Pat Boone&#44; and so on&#8230;  &gt; And the last one I found is the tribute to Deep Purple by TM Stevens.  &gt; OH&#8230; MY&#8230; GOD !  &gt; Ever played Smoke on the water with a distorted bass sound ? (and a slight  &gt; wah ?) The verses are propelled by a wonderful slap rhytm&#44; and a few  touches  &gt; of guitar.  &gt; Child in time a la reggae&#8230;  &gt; I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it.  &gt; &#8212;  &gt; Henry  &gt; I don&#8217;t know anything about music. In my line you don&#8217;t have to. &#8211;Elvis  &gt; Presley  &gt; Improvisation: the art of thinking and performing music  &gt; simultaneously. &#8211;Grove Dictionary of Music (1954)  &gt; You can reach me at henryhpaul at wanadoo dot fr  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; Years ago I heard a rumor of a Stan Kenton Big Band album where they play  &gt; the music of Richard Wagner but I&#8217;ve never seen any mention of it on any  &gt; discography. I don&#8217;t suppose anyone can shed any light on this? Or is it  &gt; just an urban myth? </p>
<p>There&#8217;s a rather obscure metal band called Manowar that makes music heavily  influenced by Wagner.  Incidentally&#44; this group has an astounding bass player&#44; Joey DeMaio. Ever  hear somebody play classical guitar on an 8-string bass? He did bass solo  renditions of the William Tell Overture (&quot;William&#8217;s Tale&quot;) and Flight of the  Bumblebee (&quot;Sting of the Bumblebee&quot;).  Rik </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Yeah&#44; I&#8217;ve heard of them and heard them. &nbsp;They kick Ass. &nbsp;Talk about cross  over. lol </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it.  &gt; I once heard about an album called &quot;AC Dixie&quot;&#44; where a bluegrass band  covered  &gt; the songs of AC/DC. Anybody heard about this?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; &gt; I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it.  &gt; I once heard about an album called &quot;AC Dixie&quot;&#44; where a bluegrass band covered  &gt; the songs of AC/DC. Anybody heard about this? </p>
<p>A bluegrass-ish band known as &quot;Luther Wright and the Wrongs&quot; just covered the  entire Pink Floyd &quot;The Wall&quot; album and called it &quot;Rebuilding the Wall&quot;. &nbsp;Its a  pretty funny concept&#44; too.  John </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; &gt; &gt; I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it. > I once heard about an album called &quot;AC Dixie&quot;&#44; where a bluegrass band covered > the songs of AC/DC. Anybody heard about this?  &gt; I dunno but that&#8217;s pretty funny&#8230; </p>
<p>Well&#44; the album is actually called &quot;Hayseed Dixie: A Hillbilly Tribute to AC/DC&quot;.  Sound samples on Amazon&#8217;s page:  http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00005CCB0/qid=1025730020/sr=8&#8230; </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Another one is &quot;Brave Combo&quot; from North Texas.  -Rankin </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; LOL! &nbsp;Just downloaded and listened to HD&#8217;s versions of &quot;Fat Bottom Girls&quot;&#44;  &gt; &quot;Cat Scratch Fever&quot; an &quot;My Best Friend&#8217;s Girl&quot;. &nbsp;Very &quot;clever&quot; as they say  &gt; in these parts.  &gt; &#8212;  &gt; Bud LeCompte  &gt; http://budlecompte.com  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>The best covers I&#8217;ve ever heard are from Frank Bennett.  http://www.frankbennett.com/  Real classy stuff.  Regards&#44;  Krayse  &#8212;- </p>
<p> All of you people know how much I love the covers. It&#8217;s a wonderful way to  try different rhythm patterns&#44; different styles&#8230;  ABBA revisited by Helloween&#8230;  Ozzy Osbourne by Pat Boone&#44; and so on&#8230;  And the last one I found is the tribute to Deep Purple by TM Stevens.  OH&#8230; MY&#8230; GOD !  Ever played Smoke on the water with a distorted bass sound ? (and a slight  wah ?) The verses are propelled by a wonderful slap rhytm&#44; and a few touches  of guitar.  Child in time a la reggae&#8230;  I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it.  &#8212;  Henry  I don&#8217;t know anything about music. In my line you don&#8217;t have to. &#8211;Elvis  Presley  Improvisation: the art of thinking and performing music  simultaneously. &#8211;Grove Dictionary of Music (1954)  You can reach me at henryhpaul at wanadoo dot fr </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Years ago I heard a rumor of a Stan Kenton Big Band album where they play  the music of Richard Wagner but I&#8217;ve never seen any mention of it on any  discography. I don&#8217;t suppose anyone can shed any light on this? Or is it  just an urban myth?  &#8212;  Dale Cruse  www.dalecruse.com  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text ->&gt; I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it. > I once heard about an album called &quot;AC Dixie&quot;&#44; where a bluegrass band covered > the songs of AC/DC. Anybody heard about this?  &gt; I dunno but that&#8217;s pretty funny&#8230;  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>If you like odd covers&#44; have you ever heard the band Lounge Against the  Machine? Lead singer Richard Cheese can make ANY tune into a sleazy lounge  tune. Quite amusing. My favorite is their cover of Nirvana&#8217;s &quot;Rape Me.&quot;  &#8212;  Dale Cruse  www.dalecruse.com  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt; All of you people know how much I love the covers. It&#8217;s a wonderful way to  &gt; try different rhythm patterns&#44; different styles&#8230;  &gt; ABBA revisited by Helloween&#8230;  &gt; Ozzy Osbourne by Pat Boone&#44; and so on&#8230;  &gt; And the last one I found is the tribute to Deep Purple by TM Stevens.  &gt; OH&#8230; MY&#8230; GOD !  &gt; Ever played Smoke on the water with a distorted bass sound ? (and a slight  &gt; wah ?) The verses are propelled by a wonderful slap rhytm&#44; and a few touches  &gt; of guitar.  &gt; Child in time a la reggae&#8230;  &gt; I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it.  &gt; &#8212;  &gt; Henry  &gt; I don&#8217;t know anything about music. In my line you don&#8217;t have to. &#8211;Elvis  &gt; Presley  &gt; Improvisation: the art of thinking and performing music  &gt; simultaneously. &#8211;Grove Dictionary of Music (1954)  &gt; You can reach me at henryhpaul at wanadoo dot fr  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; &gt; &gt; I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it. > I once heard about an album called &quot;AC Dixie&quot;&#44; where a bluegrass band covered > the songs of AC/DC. Anybody heard about this? </p>
<p>Actually&#44; the band is called &quot;Hayseed Dixie&quot;.  And they are funny. Kinda cool&#44; too. <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' />  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>The band is called &quot;Hayseed Dixie&quot; actually. &nbsp;They do a fantastic job of  turning AC/DC tunes into bluegrass.  http://hayseed-dixie.com/  Their new cd sounds pretty cool. &nbsp;I can&#8217;t wait to hear there cover of &quot;My  Best Friend&#8217;s Girl&quot;.  &#8212;  Bud LeCompte  http://budlecompte.com </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it.  &gt; I once heard about an album called &quot;AC Dixie&quot;&#44; where a bluegrass band  covered  &gt; the songs of AC/DC. Anybody heard about this?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>LOL! &nbsp;Just downloaded and listened to HD&#8217;s versions of &quot;Fat Bottom Girls&quot;&#44;  &quot;Cat Scratch Fever&quot; an &quot;My Best Friend&#8217;s Girl&quot;. &nbsp;Very &quot;clever&quot; as they say  in these parts.  &#8212;  Bud LeCompte  http://budlecompte.com </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>&gt; I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it. </p>
<p>I once heard about an album called &quot;AC Dixie&quot;&#44; where a bluegrass band covered  the songs of AC/DC. Anybody heard about this? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; &gt; I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it.  &gt; I once heard about an album called &quot;AC Dixie&quot;&#44; where a bluegrass band covered  &gt; the songs of AC/DC. Anybody heard about this? </p>
<p>I dunno but that&#8217;s pretty funny&#8230;  &#8212;  &nbsp; /&quot; &nbsp;ASCII Ribbon Campaign &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;| Todd H  &nbsp;  / &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; | http://www.toddh.net/  &nbsp; &nbsp;X &nbsp; Promoting good netiquette &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;| http://triplethreatband.com/  &nbsp; /  &nbsp;http://www.toddh.net/netiquette/ &nbsp; &nbsp; | &quot;4 lines suffice.&quot; </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; All of you people know how much I love the covers. It&#8217;s a wonderful way to  &gt; try different rhythm patterns&#44; different styles&#8230;  &gt; ABBA revisited by Helloween&#8230;  &gt; Ozzy Osbourne by Pat Boone&#44; and so on&#8230;  &gt; And the last one I found is the tribute to Deep Purple by TM Stevens.  &gt; OH&#8230; MY&#8230; GOD !  &gt; Ever played Smoke on the water with a distorted bass sound ? (and a slight  &gt; wah ?) The verses are propelled by a wonderful slap rhytm&#44; and a few  touches  &gt; of guitar.  &gt; Child in time a la reggae&#8230;  &gt; I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it. </p>
<p>Not at all.I&#8217;m partial to inventive covers myself&#44;as long as they add  something to the original instead of murdering it.I&#8217;ve got two different  covers of one of my favourite Richard Thompson songs &#8216;Wall of Death&#8217;.One by  REM and one by a country and western duo.They&#8217;re both good imo.And then  there&#8217;s Paul Young&#8217;s excellent job of Marvin Gayes &#8216;Wherever I Lay My Hat&#8217;&#44;  with Pino featuring.  As for different styles&#44;the best example I can give is &#8216;Powderfinger&#8217; by the  Cowboy Junkies.Compared to Neil Young thrashing away on the original&#44;it&#8217;s  almost a different song.  There is a dark side though &#8211; Rolf Harris doing &#8216;Stairway to Heaven&#8217;&#8230;  SR </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>All of you people know how much I love the covers. It&#8217;s a wonderful way to  try different rhythm patterns&#44; different styles&#8230;  ABBA revisited by Helloween&#8230;  Ozzy Osbourne by Pat Boone&#44; and so on&#8230;  And the last one I found is the tribute to Deep Purple by TM Stevens.  OH&#8230; MY&#8230; GOD !  Ever played Smoke on the water with a distorted bass sound ? (and a slight  wah ?) The verses are propelled by a wonderful slap rhytm&#44; and a few touches  of guitar.  Child in time a la reggae&#8230;  I know some people here wish to kill me&#44; but I can&#8217;t help it.  &#8212;  Henry  I don&#8217;t know anything about music. In my line you don&#8217;t have to. &#8211;Elvis  Presley  Improvisation: the art of thinking and performing music  simultaneously. &#8211;Grove Dictionary of Music (1954)  You can reach me at henryhpaul at wanadoo dot fr </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4></p>
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		<item>
		<title>I&#039;ve got a problem&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://maois101.org/maios/ive-got-a-problem-112514.html</link>
		<comments>http://maois101.org/maios/ive-got-a-problem-112514.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Jul 2002 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[MAIOs]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://maois.org/uncategorized/ive-got-a-problem-112514.html</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question:
We could have used &#160;this info three years ago when our Suburban cooked the  transmssion.  To be fair we had no clue about tcc bore wear but we did experience &#34;hard&#34;  1- 2 shifts and slipping 2-3 shifts.Severe slipage at highway speeds in 4th  od with reflecting high coolant temps was [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h4><strong>Question:</strong></h4>
<p>We could have used &nbsp;this info three years ago when our Suburban cooked the  transmssion.  To be fair we had no clue about tcc bore wear but we did experience &quot;hard&quot;  1- 2 shifts and slipping 2-3 shifts.Severe slipage at highway speeds in 4th  od with reflecting high coolant temps was our clue something was amiss&#8230;  The trans rebuilder was sure that the 3rd and 4th clutches and seals were  toast and recomended a rebuild.  With the unit on the bench torn down for inspection &#44;I noted that the afore  mentioned clutches were not worn or glazed.  I also noted the the condition of pressure regulating solenoid filter  (clogged) after asking the tech some questions about the valve body.He  proceded to move the valves where I noted one appeared stuck in the bore.I  don&#8217;t remember which one though.The valve body was not changed to my  knowledge. The trans fluid was burnt (a sign of heat) though the tech could  not isolate the source&#8230;couldn&#8217;t see inside the converter&#8230;  After many internals (steels for one) were replaced and solenoids and the  toque converter and a shift improver kit too we have been running trouble  free since.  I do feel taken however because my questions re heat and valves and clutch  condition were not answered.  Does a shift improver kit really work in an adaptive unit? I can&#8217;t tell as I  have not driven any other trucks with known good oem transmissions  installed.  Am I on the right track&#8230;.does the powertrain control module &quot;remember&quot;  operating conditions and then make adjustments accordingly?  Rolf </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>No problem. &nbsp;Here&#8217;s a link to a technical artical that discusses the  subject.  http://www.sonnax.com/bulletins/tech/TS-BW-699.pdf </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  &gt; obviously&#44; you can and did  &gt; but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  &gt; couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax  stuff  &gt; themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. > Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but  my > advice comes from direct experience. > TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with  the > Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I  forget > the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some > number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  &gt; tranny > starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My  converter > was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  &gt; the > hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is  if > you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid > having replace or rebuild the unit. > Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a  somewhat > modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The > valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque > converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse > longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear > problem. > If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44; > then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to > figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who  works > in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix. > I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > &gt; expertise? > &gt; &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  &gt; competent > &gt; &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  &gt; when > I > &gt; &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it  if > you > &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has > slipped > &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  &gt; of > a > &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar > valve > &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  obviously&#44; you can and did  but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax stuff  themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  &gt; advice comes from direct experience.  &gt; TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  &gt; Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  &gt; the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  &gt; number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  tranny  &gt; starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  &gt; was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  the  &gt; hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  &gt; you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  &gt; having replace or rebuild the unit.  &gt; Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  &gt; modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  &gt; valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  &gt; converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  &gt; longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  &gt; problem.  &gt; If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  &gt; then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  &gt; figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  &gt; in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  &gt; I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > expertise? > &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  competent > &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  when  &gt; I > &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  &gt; you > cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  &gt; slipped > until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  of  &gt; a > &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  &gt; valve > body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  advice comes from direct experience.  TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the tranny  starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in the  hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  having replace or rebuild the unit.  Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  problem.  If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  I took his advice&#44; and it worked. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Maybe your truck has a shift commander (shift improver) on it that is set to  the tow setting.  &#8212;  &#8212;  98 Camaro  Money can&#8217;t buy happiness&#44; but it sure makes misery easier to live with. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It was worth a shot&#44; the end came off the trans on my hot rod&#44; made the same problem. &nbsp;  &nbsp; Grease&#44;  &nbsp; Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  &nbsp; Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  expertise?  &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
<p>I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if you  cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has slipped  until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of a  &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar valve  body&#8217; repair spiel. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>OK. &nbsp;Should one&#44; in your opinion&#44; upgrade a tranny that&#8217;s still working  right to avoid the problem or wait and plan on a complete rebuild when  necessary (rather than &quot;throwing parts at it&quot;)? </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your expertise?  What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
<p>I spoke with a guy at the dealer&#44; and he said that late model autos have the  ability to readjust themselves to new driving styles&#44; and that the problem  was probably related to that. &nbsp;He said that it would probably go away in a  couple of days. &nbsp;Does that sound realistic&#44; or am I being jived? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>They do talk like computer people&#44; don&#8217;t they. Got their own language  and everything!  Seriously&#44; your best shot is to find a local independent AT rebuilder  who knows his stuff. Ask around. Visit the shop. Ask questions. If he  doesn&#8217;t savvy the valve body deal&#44; go elsewhere. Ask about warranties.  Sometimes you can ask around at 4&#215;4 shops and travel trailer shops for a  good tranny mechanic. The owner of your local NAPA might be able to  steer you to a good shop. You can always go the national rebuilder route  too&#44; like www.jetchip.com or www.tciauto.com. Pricey but good.  Hint: If you ever buy another GM truck&#44; get one with the 4L80E. It&#8217;s the  old TH400 on steroids. I&#8217;ve tried&#44; believe me&#44; I&#8217;ve really tried&#44; but  you just can&#8217;t break them.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text ->&gt;There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: >&gt;Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is >&gt;harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a >&gt;special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s >done&#44; >&gt;simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall >the >&gt;valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  &gt;well >&gt;replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes >the >&gt;hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  &gt;TCC >&gt;valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is >&gt;accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  &gt;insert >&gt;the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon >seal >&gt;that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; >visit >&gt;Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. >yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  &gt;slip >when you are finished.  &gt;Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  &gt;to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />   </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  &gt; Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  &gt; harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  &gt; special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  done&#44;  &gt; simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  the  &gt; valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  &gt; replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  the  &gt; hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  &gt; valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  &gt; accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  &gt; the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  seal  &gt; that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  visit  &gt; Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p>yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC slip  when you are finished. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>A lot of us have had the same problem. &nbsp;You have a 4L60E transmission. &nbsp;It&#8217;s  electronically controlled which means the shifts are solenoid actuated.  They switched to an aluminum valve body. &nbsp;Previously the valve bodies had  been cast iron.  GM has&#44; or had a problem with the TCC valve wearing the bore in the valve  body. &nbsp;That&#8217;s what&#8217;s happening to you. &nbsp;If you go to your dealer and have  him read the codes off your ECM they&#8217;ll no doubt tell you they&#8217;re getting a  P1870 code. &nbsp;It&#8217;s a general code that means the ECM sensed an internal  slippage. &nbsp;The hard shift is the result of the ECM commanding maximum line  pressure in order to accomplish the shifts without burning up clutches.  What&#8217;s happening internally is that the TCC&#44; or Torque Converter Clutch  valve has worn the bore and fluid is getting past it. &nbsp;This reduces pressure  in the circuit that actuates the torque converter lock-up. &nbsp;If you don&#8217;t fix  this&#44; sooner or later you&#8217;ll be replacing your torque converter.  Dealers who know what they&#8217;re doing will recommend a new valve body. &nbsp;It  will come with a longer TCC valve -presumably this one will rock less in the  bore and cause less wear. &nbsp;Clueless dealors will simply tell you to replace  the transmission with a new Serta unit. &nbsp;The first option costes $400-500;  the second upwards of $2&#44;000.  There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s done&#44;  simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall the  valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes the  hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon seal  that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; visit  Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Ah&#44; so *that&#8217;s* why I couldn&#8217;t find it. </p>
<p> Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  &gt;there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  &gt;to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  &gt;Grease >1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago. >Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I >get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably >jumps forward. >My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  &gt;I >was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  &gt;with >a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the >vehicle jump forward like it does. >Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed? >Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Axle wrap?  Are there blocks on the rear axle? &nbsp;If so&#8230;solution could be traction bars  or replace stock springs and blocks for lift springs.  HH </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>There have been ppl saying the same thing abt harsh 1-2 shifts on  the full-size trucks &#8230; I think a computer update fixes it &#8230;  don&#8217;t know if it would be the same on yours or not but just a  thought </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from  a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle  noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad  mounts) and that I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had  happened to me with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts  wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It would depend on how fast you are accelerating&#44; you maybe making the  transmission &quot;kick down&quot; to a lower gear. &nbsp;If it&#8217;s not that&#44; change  the transmission fuild and filter&#44; and put in a good synthetic fluid  like Mobil 1 (they make an auto transmission fluid). &nbsp;If you dont have  any luck&#44; take it to a mechanic and have them check it out.  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt;Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt;get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt;jumps forward.  &gt;My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  &gt;was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  &gt;a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt;vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt;Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt;Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>We could have used &nbsp;this info three years ago when our Suburban cooked the  transmssion.  To be fair we had no clue about tcc bore wear but we did experience &quot;hard&quot;  1- 2 shifts and slipping 2-3 shifts.Severe slipage at highway speeds in 4th  od with reflecting high coolant temps was our clue something was amiss&#8230;  The trans rebuilder was sure that the 3rd and 4th clutches and seals were  toast and recomended a rebuild.  With the unit on the bench torn down for inspection &#44;I noted that the afore  mentioned clutches were not worn or glazed.  I also noted the the condition of pressure regulating solenoid filter  (clogged) after asking the tech some questions about the valve body.He  proceded to move the valves where I noted one appeared stuck in the bore.I  don&#8217;t remember which one though.The valve body was not changed to my  knowledge. The trans fluid was burnt (a sign of heat) though the tech could  not isolate the source&#8230;couldn&#8217;t see inside the converter&#8230;  After many internals (steels for one) were replaced and solenoids and the  toque converter and a shift improver kit too we have been running trouble  free since.  I do feel taken however because my questions re heat and valves and clutch  condition were not answered.  Does a shift improver kit really work in an adaptive unit? I can&#8217;t tell as I  have not driven any other trucks with known good oem transmissions  installed.  Am I on the right track&#8230;.does the powertrain control module &quot;remember&quot;  operating conditions and then make adjustments accordingly?  Rolf </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>No problem. &nbsp;Here&#8217;s a link to a technical artical that discusses the  subject.  http://www.sonnax.com/bulletins/tech/TS-BW-699.pdf </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  &gt; obviously&#44; you can and did  &gt; but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  &gt; couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax  stuff  &gt; themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. > Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but  my > advice comes from direct experience. > TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with  the > Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I  forget > the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some > number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  &gt; tranny > starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My  converter > was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  &gt; the > hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is  if > you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid > having replace or rebuild the unit. > Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a  somewhat > modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The > valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque > converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse > longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear > problem. > If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44; > then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to > figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who  works > in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix. > I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > &gt; expertise? > &gt; &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  &gt; competent > &gt; &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  &gt; when > I > &gt; &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it  if > you > &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has > slipped > &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  &gt; of > a > &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar > valve > &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  obviously&#44; you can and did  but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax stuff  themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  &gt; advice comes from direct experience.  &gt; TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  &gt; Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  &gt; the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  &gt; number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  tranny  &gt; starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  &gt; was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  the  &gt; hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  &gt; you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  &gt; having replace or rebuild the unit.  &gt; Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  &gt; modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  &gt; valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  &gt; converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  &gt; longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  &gt; problem.  &gt; If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  &gt; then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  &gt; figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  &gt; in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  &gt; I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > expertise? > &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  competent > &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  when  &gt; I > &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  &gt; you > cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  &gt; slipped > until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  of  &gt; a > &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  &gt; valve > body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  advice comes from direct experience.  TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the tranny  starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in the  hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  having replace or rebuild the unit.  Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  problem.  If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  I took his advice&#44; and it worked. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>OK. &nbsp;Should one&#44; in your opinion&#44; upgrade a tranny that&#8217;s still working  right to avoid the problem or wait and plan on a complete rebuild when  necessary (rather than &quot;throwing parts at it&quot;)? </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It was worth a shot&#44; the end came off the trans on my hot rod&#44; made the same problem. &nbsp;  &nbsp; Grease&#44;  &nbsp; Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  &nbsp; Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Maybe your truck has a shift commander (shift improver) on it that is set to  the tow setting.  &#8212;  &#8212;  98 Camaro  Money can&#8217;t buy happiness&#44; but it sure makes misery easier to live with. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  expertise?  &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
<p>I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if you  cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has slipped  until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of a  &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar valve  body&#8217; repair spiel. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your expertise?  What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
<p>I spoke with a guy at the dealer&#44; and he said that late model autos have the  ability to readjust themselves to new driving styles&#44; and that the problem  was probably related to that. &nbsp;He said that it would probably go away in a  couple of days. &nbsp;Does that sound realistic&#44; or am I being jived? </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>They do talk like computer people&#44; don&#8217;t they. Got their own language  and everything!  Seriously&#44; your best shot is to find a local independent AT rebuilder  who knows his stuff. Ask around. Visit the shop. Ask questions. If he  doesn&#8217;t savvy the valve body deal&#44; go elsewhere. Ask about warranties.  Sometimes you can ask around at 4&#215;4 shops and travel trailer shops for a  good tranny mechanic. The owner of your local NAPA might be able to  steer you to a good shop. You can always go the national rebuilder route  too&#44; like www.jetchip.com or www.tciauto.com. Pricey but good.  Hint: If you ever buy another GM truck&#44; get one with the 4L80E. It&#8217;s the  old TH400 on steroids. I&#8217;ve tried&#44; believe me&#44; I&#8217;ve really tried&#44; but  you just can&#8217;t break them.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text ->&gt;There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: >&gt;Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is >&gt;harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a >&gt;special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s >done&#44; >&gt;simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall >the >&gt;valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  &gt;well >&gt;replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes >the >&gt;hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  &gt;TCC >&gt;valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is >&gt;accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  &gt;insert >&gt;the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon >seal >&gt;that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; >visit >&gt;Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. >yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  &gt;slip >when you are finished.  &gt;Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  &gt;to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />   </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  &gt; Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  &gt; harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  &gt; special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  done&#44;  &gt; simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  the  &gt; valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  &gt; replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  the  &gt; hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  &gt; valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  &gt; accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  &gt; the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  seal  &gt; that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  visit  &gt; Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p>yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC slip  when you are finished. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Ah&#44; so *that&#8217;s* why I couldn&#8217;t find it. </p>
<p> Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>A lot of us have had the same problem. &nbsp;You have a 4L60E transmission. &nbsp;It&#8217;s  electronically controlled which means the shifts are solenoid actuated.  They switched to an aluminum valve body. &nbsp;Previously the valve bodies had  been cast iron.  GM has&#44; or had a problem with the TCC valve wearing the bore in the valve  body. &nbsp;That&#8217;s what&#8217;s happening to you. &nbsp;If you go to your dealer and have  him read the codes off your ECM they&#8217;ll no doubt tell you they&#8217;re getting a  P1870 code. &nbsp;It&#8217;s a general code that means the ECM sensed an internal  slippage. &nbsp;The hard shift is the result of the ECM commanding maximum line  pressure in order to accomplish the shifts without burning up clutches.  What&#8217;s happening internally is that the TCC&#44; or Torque Converter Clutch  valve has worn the bore and fluid is getting past it. &nbsp;This reduces pressure  in the circuit that actuates the torque converter lock-up. &nbsp;If you don&#8217;t fix  this&#44; sooner or later you&#8217;ll be replacing your torque converter.  Dealers who know what they&#8217;re doing will recommend a new valve body. &nbsp;It  will come with a longer TCC valve -presumably this one will rock less in the  bore and cause less wear. &nbsp;Clueless dealors will simply tell you to replace  the transmission with a new Serta unit. &nbsp;The first option costes $400-500;  the second upwards of $2&#44;000.  There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s done&#44;  simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall the  valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes the  hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon seal  that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; visit  Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  &gt;there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  &gt;to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  &gt;Grease >1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago. >Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I >get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably >jumps forward. >My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  &gt;I >was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  &gt;with >a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the >vehicle jump forward like it does. >Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed? >Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>There have been ppl saying the same thing abt harsh 1-2 shifts on  the full-size trucks &#8230; I think a computer update fixes it &#8230;  don&#8217;t know if it would be the same on yours or not but just a  thought </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from  a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle  noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad  mounts) and that I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had  happened to me with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts  wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Axle wrap?  Are there blocks on the rear axle? &nbsp;If so&#8230;solution could be traction bars  or replace stock springs and blocks for lift springs.  HH </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It would depend on how fast you are accelerating&#44; you maybe making the  transmission &quot;kick down&quot; to a lower gear. &nbsp;If it&#8217;s not that&#44; change  the transmission fuild and filter&#44; and put in a good synthetic fluid  like Mobil 1 (they make an auto transmission fluid). &nbsp;If you dont have  any luck&#44; take it to a mechanic and have them check it out.  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt;Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt;get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt;jumps forward.  &gt;My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  &gt;was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  &gt;a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt;vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt;Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt;Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>We could have used &nbsp;this info three years ago when our Suburban cooked the  transmssion.  To be fair we had no clue about tcc bore wear but we did experience &quot;hard&quot;  1- 2 shifts and slipping 2-3 shifts.Severe slipage at highway speeds in 4th  od with reflecting high coolant temps was our clue something was amiss&#8230;  The trans rebuilder was sure that the 3rd and 4th clutches and seals were  toast and recomended a rebuild.  With the unit on the bench torn down for inspection &#44;I noted that the afore  mentioned clutches were not worn or glazed.  I also noted the the condition of pressure regulating solenoid filter  (clogged) after asking the tech some questions about the valve body.He  proceded to move the valves where I noted one appeared stuck in the bore.I  don&#8217;t remember which one though.The valve body was not changed to my  knowledge. The trans fluid was burnt (a sign of heat) though the tech could  not isolate the source&#8230;couldn&#8217;t see inside the converter&#8230;  After many internals (steels for one) were replaced and solenoids and the  toque converter and a shift improver kit too we have been running trouble  free since.  I do feel taken however because my questions re heat and valves and clutch  condition were not answered.  Does a shift improver kit really work in an adaptive unit? I can&#8217;t tell as I  have not driven any other trucks with known good oem transmissions  installed.  Am I on the right track&#8230;.does the powertrain control module &quot;remember&quot;  operating conditions and then make adjustments accordingly?  Rolf </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>No problem. &nbsp;Here&#8217;s a link to a technical artical that discusses the  subject.  http://www.sonnax.com/bulletins/tech/TS-BW-699.pdf </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  &gt; obviously&#44; you can and did  &gt; but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  &gt; couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax  stuff  &gt; themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. > Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but  my > advice comes from direct experience. > TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with  the > Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I  forget > the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some > number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  &gt; tranny > starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My  converter > was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  &gt; the > hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is  if > you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid > having replace or rebuild the unit. > Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a  somewhat > modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The > valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque > converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse > longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear > problem. > If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44; > then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to > figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who  works > in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix. > I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > &gt; expertise? > &gt; &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  &gt; competent > &gt; &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  &gt; when > I > &gt; &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it  if > you > &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has > slipped > &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  &gt; of > a > &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar > valve > &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  obviously&#44; you can and did  but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax stuff  themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  &gt; advice comes from direct experience.  &gt; TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  &gt; Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  &gt; the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  &gt; number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  tranny  &gt; starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  &gt; was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  the  &gt; hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  &gt; you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  &gt; having replace or rebuild the unit.  &gt; Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  &gt; modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  &gt; valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  &gt; converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  &gt; longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  &gt; problem.  &gt; If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  &gt; then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  &gt; figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  &gt; in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  &gt; I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > expertise? > &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  competent > &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  when  &gt; I > &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  &gt; you > cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  &gt; slipped > until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  of  &gt; a > &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  &gt; valve > body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  advice comes from direct experience.  TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the tranny  starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in the  hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  having replace or rebuild the unit.  Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  problem.  If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  I took his advice&#44; and it worked. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>OK. &nbsp;Should one&#44; in your opinion&#44; upgrade a tranny that&#8217;s still working  right to avoid the problem or wait and plan on a complete rebuild when  necessary (rather than &quot;throwing parts at it&quot;)? </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It was worth a shot&#44; the end came off the trans on my hot rod&#44; made the same problem. &nbsp;  &nbsp; Grease&#44;  &nbsp; Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  &nbsp; Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Maybe your truck has a shift commander (shift improver) on it that is set to  the tow setting.  &#8212;  &#8212;  98 Camaro  Money can&#8217;t buy happiness&#44; but it sure makes misery easier to live with. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  expertise?  &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
<p>I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if you  cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has slipped  until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of a  &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar valve  body&#8217; repair spiel. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your expertise?  What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
<p>I spoke with a guy at the dealer&#44; and he said that late model autos have the  ability to readjust themselves to new driving styles&#44; and that the problem  was probably related to that. &nbsp;He said that it would probably go away in a  couple of days. &nbsp;Does that sound realistic&#44; or am I being jived? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>They do talk like computer people&#44; don&#8217;t they. Got their own language  and everything!  Seriously&#44; your best shot is to find a local independent AT rebuilder  who knows his stuff. Ask around. Visit the shop. Ask questions. If he  doesn&#8217;t savvy the valve body deal&#44; go elsewhere. Ask about warranties.  Sometimes you can ask around at 4&#215;4 shops and travel trailer shops for a  good tranny mechanic. The owner of your local NAPA might be able to  steer you to a good shop. You can always go the national rebuilder route  too&#44; like www.jetchip.com or www.tciauto.com. Pricey but good.  Hint: If you ever buy another GM truck&#44; get one with the 4L80E. It&#8217;s the  old TH400 on steroids. I&#8217;ve tried&#44; believe me&#44; I&#8217;ve really tried&#44; but  you just can&#8217;t break them.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text ->&gt;There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: >&gt;Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is >&gt;harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a >&gt;special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s >done&#44; >&gt;simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall >the >&gt;valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  &gt;well >&gt;replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes >the >&gt;hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  &gt;TCC >&gt;valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is >&gt;accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  &gt;insert >&gt;the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon >seal >&gt;that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; >visit >&gt;Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. >yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  &gt;slip >when you are finished.  &gt;Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  &gt;to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />   </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  &gt; Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  &gt; harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  &gt; special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  done&#44;  &gt; simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  the  &gt; valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  &gt; replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  the  &gt; hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  &gt; valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  &gt; accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  &gt; the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  seal  &gt; that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  visit  &gt; Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p>yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC slip  when you are finished. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Ah&#44; so *that&#8217;s* why I couldn&#8217;t find it. </p>
<p> Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>A lot of us have had the same problem. &nbsp;You have a 4L60E transmission. &nbsp;It&#8217;s  electronically controlled which means the shifts are solenoid actuated.  They switched to an aluminum valve body. &nbsp;Previously the valve bodies had  been cast iron.  GM has&#44; or had a problem with the TCC valve wearing the bore in the valve  body. &nbsp;That&#8217;s what&#8217;s happening to you. &nbsp;If you go to your dealer and have  him read the codes off your ECM they&#8217;ll no doubt tell you they&#8217;re getting a  P1870 code. &nbsp;It&#8217;s a general code that means the ECM sensed an internal  slippage. &nbsp;The hard shift is the result of the ECM commanding maximum line  pressure in order to accomplish the shifts without burning up clutches.  What&#8217;s happening internally is that the TCC&#44; or Torque Converter Clutch  valve has worn the bore and fluid is getting past it. &nbsp;This reduces pressure  in the circuit that actuates the torque converter lock-up. &nbsp;If you don&#8217;t fix  this&#44; sooner or later you&#8217;ll be replacing your torque converter.  Dealers who know what they&#8217;re doing will recommend a new valve body. &nbsp;It  will come with a longer TCC valve -presumably this one will rock less in the  bore and cause less wear. &nbsp;Clueless dealors will simply tell you to replace  the transmission with a new Serta unit. &nbsp;The first option costes $400-500;  the second upwards of $2&#44;000.  There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s done&#44;  simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall the  valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes the  hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon seal  that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; visit  Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  &gt;there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  &gt;to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  &gt;Grease >1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago. >Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I >get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably >jumps forward. >My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  &gt;I >was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  &gt;with >a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the >vehicle jump forward like it does. >Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed? >Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>There have been ppl saying the same thing abt harsh 1-2 shifts on  the full-size trucks &#8230; I think a computer update fixes it &#8230;  don&#8217;t know if it would be the same on yours or not but just a  thought </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from  a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle  noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad  mounts) and that I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had  happened to me with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts  wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Axle wrap?  Are there blocks on the rear axle? &nbsp;If so&#8230;solution could be traction bars  or replace stock springs and blocks for lift springs.  HH </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It would depend on how fast you are accelerating&#44; you maybe making the  transmission &quot;kick down&quot; to a lower gear. &nbsp;If it&#8217;s not that&#44; change  the transmission fuild and filter&#44; and put in a good synthetic fluid  like Mobil 1 (they make an auto transmission fluid). &nbsp;If you dont have  any luck&#44; take it to a mechanic and have them check it out.  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt;Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt;get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt;jumps forward.  &gt;My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  &gt;was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  &gt;a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt;vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt;Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt;Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>We could have used &nbsp;this info three years ago when our Suburban cooked the  transmssion.  To be fair we had no clue about tcc bore wear but we did experience &quot;hard&quot;  1- 2 shifts and slipping 2-3 shifts.Severe slipage at highway speeds in 4th  od with reflecting high coolant temps was our clue something was amiss&#8230;  The trans rebuilder was sure that the 3rd and 4th clutches and seals were  toast and recomended a rebuild.  With the unit on the bench torn down for inspection &#44;I noted that the afore  mentioned clutches were not worn or glazed.  I also noted the the condition of pressure regulating solenoid filter  (clogged) after asking the tech some questions about the valve body.He  proceded to move the valves where I noted one appeared stuck in the bore.I  don&#8217;t remember which one though.The valve body was not changed to my  knowledge. The trans fluid was burnt (a sign of heat) though the tech could  not isolate the source&#8230;couldn&#8217;t see inside the converter&#8230;  After many internals (steels for one) were replaced and solenoids and the  toque converter and a shift improver kit too we have been running trouble  free since.  I do feel taken however because my questions re heat and valves and clutch  condition were not answered.  Does a shift improver kit really work in an adaptive unit? I can&#8217;t tell as I  have not driven any other trucks with known good oem transmissions  installed.  Am I on the right track&#8230;.does the powertrain control module &quot;remember&quot;  operating conditions and then make adjustments accordingly?  Rolf </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>No problem. &nbsp;Here&#8217;s a link to a technical artical that discusses the  subject.  http://www.sonnax.com/bulletins/tech/TS-BW-699.pdf </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  &gt; obviously&#44; you can and did  &gt; but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  &gt; couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax  stuff  &gt; themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. > Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but  my > advice comes from direct experience. > TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with  the > Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I  forget > the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some > number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  &gt; tranny > starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My  converter > was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  &gt; the > hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is  if > you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid > having replace or rebuild the unit. > Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a  somewhat > modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The > valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque > converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse > longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear > problem. > If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44; > then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to > figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who  works > in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix. > I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > &gt; expertise? > &gt; &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  &gt; competent > &gt; &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  &gt; when > I > &gt; &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it  if > you > &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has > slipped > &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  &gt; of > a > &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar > valve > &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  obviously&#44; you can and did  but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax stuff  themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  &gt; advice comes from direct experience.  &gt; TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  &gt; Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  &gt; the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  &gt; number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  tranny  &gt; starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  &gt; was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  the  &gt; hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  &gt; you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  &gt; having replace or rebuild the unit.  &gt; Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  &gt; modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  &gt; valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  &gt; converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  &gt; longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  &gt; problem.  &gt; If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  &gt; then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  &gt; figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  &gt; in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  &gt; I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > expertise? > &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  competent > &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  when  &gt; I > &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  &gt; you > cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  &gt; slipped > until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  of  &gt; a > &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  &gt; valve > body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  advice comes from direct experience.  TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the tranny  starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in the  hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  having replace or rebuild the unit.  Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  problem.  If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  I took his advice&#44; and it worked. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>OK. &nbsp;Should one&#44; in your opinion&#44; upgrade a tranny that&#8217;s still working  right to avoid the problem or wait and plan on a complete rebuild when  necessary (rather than &quot;throwing parts at it&quot;)? </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It was worth a shot&#44; the end came off the trans on my hot rod&#44; made the same problem. &nbsp;  &nbsp; Grease&#44;  &nbsp; Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  &nbsp; Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Maybe your truck has a shift commander (shift improver) on it that is set to  the tow setting.  &#8212;  &#8212;  98 Camaro  Money can&#8217;t buy happiness&#44; but it sure makes misery easier to live with. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  expertise?  &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
<p>I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if you  cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has slipped  until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of a  &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar valve  body&#8217; repair spiel. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your expertise?  What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
<p>I spoke with a guy at the dealer&#44; and he said that late model autos have the  ability to readjust themselves to new driving styles&#44; and that the problem  was probably related to that. &nbsp;He said that it would probably go away in a  couple of days. &nbsp;Does that sound realistic&#44; or am I being jived? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>They do talk like computer people&#44; don&#8217;t they. Got their own language  and everything!  Seriously&#44; your best shot is to find a local independent AT rebuilder  who knows his stuff. Ask around. Visit the shop. Ask questions. If he  doesn&#8217;t savvy the valve body deal&#44; go elsewhere. Ask about warranties.  Sometimes you can ask around at 4&#215;4 shops and travel trailer shops for a  good tranny mechanic. The owner of your local NAPA might be able to  steer you to a good shop. You can always go the national rebuilder route  too&#44; like www.jetchip.com or www.tciauto.com. Pricey but good.  Hint: If you ever buy another GM truck&#44; get one with the 4L80E. It&#8217;s the  old TH400 on steroids. I&#8217;ve tried&#44; believe me&#44; I&#8217;ve really tried&#44; but  you just can&#8217;t break them.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text ->&gt;There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: >&gt;Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is >&gt;harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a >&gt;special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s >done&#44; >&gt;simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall >the >&gt;valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  &gt;well >&gt;replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes >the >&gt;hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  &gt;TCC >&gt;valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is >&gt;accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  &gt;insert >&gt;the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon >seal >&gt;that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; >visit >&gt;Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. >yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  &gt;slip >when you are finished.  &gt;Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  &gt;to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />   </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  &gt; Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  &gt; harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  &gt; special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  done&#44;  &gt; simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  the  &gt; valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  &gt; replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  the  &gt; hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  &gt; valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  &gt; accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  &gt; the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  seal  &gt; that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  visit  &gt; Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p>yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC slip  when you are finished. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Ah&#44; so *that&#8217;s* why I couldn&#8217;t find it. </p>
<p> Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>A lot of us have had the same problem. &nbsp;You have a 4L60E transmission. &nbsp;It&#8217;s  electronically controlled which means the shifts are solenoid actuated.  They switched to an aluminum valve body. &nbsp;Previously the valve bodies had  been cast iron.  GM has&#44; or had a problem with the TCC valve wearing the bore in the valve  body. &nbsp;That&#8217;s what&#8217;s happening to you. &nbsp;If you go to your dealer and have  him read the codes off your ECM they&#8217;ll no doubt tell you they&#8217;re getting a  P1870 code. &nbsp;It&#8217;s a general code that means the ECM sensed an internal  slippage. &nbsp;The hard shift is the result of the ECM commanding maximum line  pressure in order to accomplish the shifts without burning up clutches.  What&#8217;s happening internally is that the TCC&#44; or Torque Converter Clutch  valve has worn the bore and fluid is getting past it. &nbsp;This reduces pressure  in the circuit that actuates the torque converter lock-up. &nbsp;If you don&#8217;t fix  this&#44; sooner or later you&#8217;ll be replacing your torque converter.  Dealers who know what they&#8217;re doing will recommend a new valve body. &nbsp;It  will come with a longer TCC valve -presumably this one will rock less in the  bore and cause less wear. &nbsp;Clueless dealors will simply tell you to replace  the transmission with a new Serta unit. &nbsp;The first option costes $400-500;  the second upwards of $2&#44;000.  There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s done&#44;  simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall the  valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes the  hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon seal  that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; visit  Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  &gt;there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  &gt;to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  &gt;Grease >1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago. >Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I >get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably >jumps forward. >My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  &gt;I >was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  &gt;with >a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the >vehicle jump forward like it does. >Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed? >Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>There have been ppl saying the same thing abt harsh 1-2 shifts on  the full-size trucks &#8230; I think a computer update fixes it &#8230;  don&#8217;t know if it would be the same on yours or not but just a  thought </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from  a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle  noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad  mounts) and that I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had  happened to me with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts  wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Axle wrap?  Are there blocks on the rear axle? &nbsp;If so&#8230;solution could be traction bars  or replace stock springs and blocks for lift springs.  HH </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It would depend on how fast you are accelerating&#44; you maybe making the  transmission &quot;kick down&quot; to a lower gear. &nbsp;If it&#8217;s not that&#44; change  the transmission fuild and filter&#44; and put in a good synthetic fluid  like Mobil 1 (they make an auto transmission fluid). &nbsp;If you dont have  any luck&#44; take it to a mechanic and have them check it out.  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt;Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt;get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt;jumps forward.  &gt;My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  &gt;was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  &gt;a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt;vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt;Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt;Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>We could have used &nbsp;this info three years ago when our Suburban cooked the  transmssion.  To be fair we had no clue about tcc bore wear but we did experience &quot;hard&quot;  1- 2 shifts and slipping 2-3 shifts.Severe slipage at highway speeds in 4th  od with reflecting high coolant temps was our clue something was amiss&#8230;  The trans rebuilder was sure that the 3rd and 4th clutches and seals were  toast and recomended a rebuild.  With the unit on the bench torn down for inspection &#44;I noted that the afore  mentioned clutches were not worn or glazed.  I also noted the the condition of pressure regulating solenoid filter  (clogged) after asking the tech some questions about the valve body.He  proceded to move the valves where I noted one appeared stuck in the bore.I  don&#8217;t remember which one though.The valve body was not changed to my  knowledge. The trans fluid was burnt (a sign of heat) though the tech could  not isolate the source&#8230;couldn&#8217;t see inside the converter&#8230;  After many internals (steels for one) were replaced and solenoids and the  toque converter and a shift improver kit too we have been running trouble  free since.  I do feel taken however because my questions re heat and valves and clutch  condition were not answered.  Does a shift improver kit really work in an adaptive unit? I can&#8217;t tell as I  have not driven any other trucks with known good oem transmissions  installed.  Am I on the right track&#8230;.does the powertrain control module &quot;remember&quot;  operating conditions and then make adjustments accordingly?  Rolf </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>No problem. &nbsp;Here&#8217;s a link to a technical artical that discusses the  subject.  http://www.sonnax.com/bulletins/tech/TS-BW-699.pdf </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  &gt; obviously&#44; you can and did  &gt; but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  &gt; couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax  stuff  &gt; themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. > Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but  my > advice comes from direct experience. > TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with  the > Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I  forget > the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some > number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  &gt; tranny > starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My  converter > was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  &gt; the > hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is  if > you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid > having replace or rebuild the unit. > Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a  somewhat > modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The > valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque > converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse > longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear > problem. > If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44; > then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to > figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who  works > in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix. > I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > &gt; expertise? > &gt; &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  &gt; competent > &gt; &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  &gt; when > I > &gt; &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it  if > you > &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has > slipped > &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  &gt; of > a > &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar > valve > &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  obviously&#44; you can and did  but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax stuff  themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  &gt; advice comes from direct experience.  &gt; TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  &gt; Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  &gt; the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  &gt; number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  tranny  &gt; starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  &gt; was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  the  &gt; hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  &gt; you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  &gt; having replace or rebuild the unit.  &gt; Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  &gt; modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  &gt; valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  &gt; converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  &gt; longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  &gt; problem.  &gt; If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  &gt; then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  &gt; figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  &gt; in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  &gt; I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > expertise? > &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  competent > &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  when  &gt; I > &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  &gt; you > cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  &gt; slipped > until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  of  &gt; a > &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  &gt; valve > body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  advice comes from direct experience.  TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the tranny  starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in the  hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  having replace or rebuild the unit.  Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  problem.  If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  I took his advice&#44; and it worked. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>OK. &nbsp;Should one&#44; in your opinion&#44; upgrade a tranny that&#8217;s still working  right to avoid the problem or wait and plan on a complete rebuild when  necessary (rather than &quot;throwing parts at it&quot;)? </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It was worth a shot&#44; the end came off the trans on my hot rod&#44; made the same problem. &nbsp;  &nbsp; Grease&#44;  &nbsp; Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  &nbsp; Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Maybe your truck has a shift commander (shift improver) on it that is set to  the tow setting.  &#8212;  &#8212;  98 Camaro  Money can&#8217;t buy happiness&#44; but it sure makes misery easier to live with. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  expertise?  &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
<p>I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if you  cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has slipped  until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of a  &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar valve  body&#8217; repair spiel. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your expertise?  What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
<p>I spoke with a guy at the dealer&#44; and he said that late model autos have the  ability to readjust themselves to new driving styles&#44; and that the problem  was probably related to that. &nbsp;He said that it would probably go away in a  couple of days. &nbsp;Does that sound realistic&#44; or am I being jived? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>They do talk like computer people&#44; don&#8217;t they. Got their own language  and everything!  Seriously&#44; your best shot is to find a local independent AT rebuilder  who knows his stuff. Ask around. Visit the shop. Ask questions. If he  doesn&#8217;t savvy the valve body deal&#44; go elsewhere. Ask about warranties.  Sometimes you can ask around at 4&#215;4 shops and travel trailer shops for a  good tranny mechanic. The owner of your local NAPA might be able to  steer you to a good shop. You can always go the national rebuilder route  too&#44; like www.jetchip.com or www.tciauto.com. Pricey but good.  Hint: If you ever buy another GM truck&#44; get one with the 4L80E. It&#8217;s the  old TH400 on steroids. I&#8217;ve tried&#44; believe me&#44; I&#8217;ve really tried&#44; but  you just can&#8217;t break them.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text ->&gt;There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: >&gt;Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is >&gt;harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a >&gt;special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s >done&#44; >&gt;simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall >the >&gt;valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  &gt;well >&gt;replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes >the >&gt;hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  &gt;TCC >&gt;valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is >&gt;accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  &gt;insert >&gt;the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon >seal >&gt;that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; >visit >&gt;Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. >yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  &gt;slip >when you are finished.  &gt;Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  &gt;to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />   </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  &gt; Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  &gt; harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  &gt; special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  done&#44;  &gt; simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  the  &gt; valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  &gt; replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  the  &gt; hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  &gt; valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  &gt; accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  &gt; the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  seal  &gt; that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  visit  &gt; Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p>yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC slip  when you are finished. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Ah&#44; so *that&#8217;s* why I couldn&#8217;t find it. </p>
<p> Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>A lot of us have had the same problem. &nbsp;You have a 4L60E transmission. &nbsp;It&#8217;s  electronically controlled which means the shifts are solenoid actuated.  They switched to an aluminum valve body. &nbsp;Previously the valve bodies had  been cast iron.  GM has&#44; or had a problem with the TCC valve wearing the bore in the valve  body. &nbsp;That&#8217;s what&#8217;s happening to you. &nbsp;If you go to your dealer and have  him read the codes off your ECM they&#8217;ll no doubt tell you they&#8217;re getting a  P1870 code. &nbsp;It&#8217;s a general code that means the ECM sensed an internal  slippage. &nbsp;The hard shift is the result of the ECM commanding maximum line  pressure in order to accomplish the shifts without burning up clutches.  What&#8217;s happening internally is that the TCC&#44; or Torque Converter Clutch  valve has worn the bore and fluid is getting past it. &nbsp;This reduces pressure  in the circuit that actuates the torque converter lock-up. &nbsp;If you don&#8217;t fix  this&#44; sooner or later you&#8217;ll be replacing your torque converter.  Dealers who know what they&#8217;re doing will recommend a new valve body. &nbsp;It  will come with a longer TCC valve -presumably this one will rock less in the  bore and cause less wear. &nbsp;Clueless dealors will simply tell you to replace  the transmission with a new Serta unit. &nbsp;The first option costes $400-500;  the second upwards of $2&#44;000.  There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s done&#44;  simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall the  valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes the  hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon seal  that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; visit  Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  &gt;there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  &gt;to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  &gt;Grease >1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago. >Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I >get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably >jumps forward. >My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  &gt;I >was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  &gt;with >a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the >vehicle jump forward like it does. >Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed? >Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>There have been ppl saying the same thing abt harsh 1-2 shifts on  the full-size trucks &#8230; I think a computer update fixes it &#8230;  don&#8217;t know if it would be the same on yours or not but just a  thought </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from  a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle  noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad  mounts) and that I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had  happened to me with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts  wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Axle wrap?  Are there blocks on the rear axle? &nbsp;If so&#8230;solution could be traction bars  or replace stock springs and blocks for lift springs.  HH </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It would depend on how fast you are accelerating&#44; you maybe making the  transmission &quot;kick down&quot; to a lower gear. &nbsp;If it&#8217;s not that&#44; change  the transmission fuild and filter&#44; and put in a good synthetic fluid  like Mobil 1 (they make an auto transmission fluid). &nbsp;If you dont have  any luck&#44; take it to a mechanic and have them check it out.  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt;Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt;get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt;jumps forward.  &gt;My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  &gt;was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  &gt;a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt;vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt;Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt;Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>We could have used &nbsp;this info three years ago when our Suburban cooked the  transmssion.  To be fair we had no clue about tcc bore wear but we did experience &quot;hard&quot;  1- 2 shifts and slipping 2-3 shifts.Severe slipage at highway speeds in 4th  od with reflecting high coolant temps was our clue something was amiss&#8230;  The trans rebuilder was sure that the 3rd and 4th clutches and seals were  toast and recomended a rebuild.  With the unit on the bench torn down for inspection &#44;I noted that the afore  mentioned clutches were not worn or glazed.  I also noted the the condition of pressure regulating solenoid filter  (clogged) after asking the tech some questions about the valve body.He  proceded to move the valves where I noted one appeared stuck in the bore.I  don&#8217;t remember which one though.The valve body was not changed to my  knowledge. The trans fluid was burnt (a sign of heat) though the tech could  not isolate the source&#8230;couldn&#8217;t see inside the converter&#8230;  After many internals (steels for one) were replaced and solenoids and the  toque converter and a shift improver kit too we have been running trouble  free since.  I do feel taken however because my questions re heat and valves and clutch  condition were not answered.  Does a shift improver kit really work in an adaptive unit? I can&#8217;t tell as I  have not driven any other trucks with known good oem transmissions  installed.  Am I on the right track&#8230;.does the powertrain control module &quot;remember&quot;  operating conditions and then make adjustments accordingly?  Rolf </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>No problem. &nbsp;Here&#8217;s a link to a technical artical that discusses the  subject.  http://www.sonnax.com/bulletins/tech/TS-BW-699.pdf </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  &gt; obviously&#44; you can and did  &gt; but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  &gt; couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax  stuff  &gt; themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. > Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but  my > advice comes from direct experience. > TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with  the > Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I  forget > the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some > number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  &gt; tranny > starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My  converter > was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  &gt; the > hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is  if > you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid > having replace or rebuild the unit. > Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a  somewhat > modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The > valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque > converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse > longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear > problem. > If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44; > then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to > figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who  works > in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix. > I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > &gt; expertise? > &gt; &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  &gt; competent > &gt; &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  &gt; when > I > &gt; &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it  if > you > &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has > slipped > &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  &gt; of > a > &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar > valve > &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  obviously&#44; you can and did  but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax stuff  themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  &gt; advice comes from direct experience.  &gt; TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  &gt; Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  &gt; the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  &gt; number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  tranny  &gt; starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  &gt; was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  the  &gt; hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  &gt; you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  &gt; having replace or rebuild the unit.  &gt; Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  &gt; modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  &gt; valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  &gt; converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  &gt; longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  &gt; problem.  &gt; If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  &gt; then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  &gt; figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  &gt; in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  &gt; I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > expertise? > &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  competent > &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  when  &gt; I > &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  &gt; you > cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  &gt; slipped > until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  of  &gt; a > &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  &gt; valve > body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  advice comes from direct experience.  TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the tranny  starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in the  hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  having replace or rebuild the unit.  Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  problem.  If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  I took his advice&#44; and it worked. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>OK. &nbsp;Should one&#44; in your opinion&#44; upgrade a tranny that&#8217;s still working  right to avoid the problem or wait and plan on a complete rebuild when  necessary (rather than &quot;throwing parts at it&quot;)? </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It was worth a shot&#44; the end came off the trans on my hot rod&#44; made the same problem. &nbsp;  &nbsp; Grease&#44;  &nbsp; Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  &nbsp; Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Maybe your truck has a shift commander (shift improver) on it that is set to  the tow setting.  &#8212;  &#8212;  98 Camaro  Money can&#8217;t buy happiness&#44; but it sure makes misery easier to live with. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  expertise?  &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
<p>I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if you  cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has slipped  until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of a  &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar valve  body&#8217; repair spiel. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your expertise?  What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
<p>I spoke with a guy at the dealer&#44; and he said that late model autos have the  ability to readjust themselves to new driving styles&#44; and that the problem  was probably related to that. &nbsp;He said that it would probably go away in a  couple of days. &nbsp;Does that sound realistic&#44; or am I being jived? </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>They do talk like computer people&#44; don&#8217;t they. Got their own language  and everything!  Seriously&#44; your best shot is to find a local independent AT rebuilder  who knows his stuff. Ask around. Visit the shop. Ask questions. If he  doesn&#8217;t savvy the valve body deal&#44; go elsewhere. Ask about warranties.  Sometimes you can ask around at 4&#215;4 shops and travel trailer shops for a  good tranny mechanic. The owner of your local NAPA might be able to  steer you to a good shop. You can always go the national rebuilder route  too&#44; like www.jetchip.com or www.tciauto.com. Pricey but good.  Hint: If you ever buy another GM truck&#44; get one with the 4L80E. It&#8217;s the  old TH400 on steroids. I&#8217;ve tried&#44; believe me&#44; I&#8217;ve really tried&#44; but  you just can&#8217;t break them.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text ->&gt;There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: >&gt;Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is >&gt;harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a >&gt;special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s >done&#44; >&gt;simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall >the >&gt;valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  &gt;well >&gt;replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes >the >&gt;hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  &gt;TCC >&gt;valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is >&gt;accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  &gt;insert >&gt;the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon >seal >&gt;that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; >visit >&gt;Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. >yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  &gt;slip >when you are finished.  &gt;Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  &gt;to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />   </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  &gt; Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  &gt; harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  &gt; special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  done&#44;  &gt; simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  the  &gt; valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  &gt; replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  the  &gt; hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  &gt; valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  &gt; accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  &gt; the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  seal  &gt; that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  visit  &gt; Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p>yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC slip  when you are finished. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Ah&#44; so *that&#8217;s* why I couldn&#8217;t find it. </p>
<p> Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>A lot of us have had the same problem. &nbsp;You have a 4L60E transmission. &nbsp;It&#8217;s  electronically controlled which means the shifts are solenoid actuated.  They switched to an aluminum valve body. &nbsp;Previously the valve bodies had  been cast iron.  GM has&#44; or had a problem with the TCC valve wearing the bore in the valve  body. &nbsp;That&#8217;s what&#8217;s happening to you. &nbsp;If you go to your dealer and have  him read the codes off your ECM they&#8217;ll no doubt tell you they&#8217;re getting a  P1870 code. &nbsp;It&#8217;s a general code that means the ECM sensed an internal  slippage. &nbsp;The hard shift is the result of the ECM commanding maximum line  pressure in order to accomplish the shifts without burning up clutches.  What&#8217;s happening internally is that the TCC&#44; or Torque Converter Clutch  valve has worn the bore and fluid is getting past it. &nbsp;This reduces pressure  in the circuit that actuates the torque converter lock-up. &nbsp;If you don&#8217;t fix  this&#44; sooner or later you&#8217;ll be replacing your torque converter.  Dealers who know what they&#8217;re doing will recommend a new valve body. &nbsp;It  will come with a longer TCC valve -presumably this one will rock less in the  bore and cause less wear. &nbsp;Clueless dealors will simply tell you to replace  the transmission with a new Serta unit. &nbsp;The first option costes $400-500;  the second upwards of $2&#44;000.  There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s done&#44;  simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall the  valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes the  hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon seal  that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; visit  Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  &gt;there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  &gt;to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  &gt;Grease >1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago. >Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I >get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably >jumps forward. >My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  &gt;I >was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  &gt;with >a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the >vehicle jump forward like it does. >Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed? >Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>There have been ppl saying the same thing abt harsh 1-2 shifts on  the full-size trucks &#8230; I think a computer update fixes it &#8230;  don&#8217;t know if it would be the same on yours or not but just a  thought </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from  a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle  noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad  mounts) and that I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had  happened to me with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts  wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Axle wrap?  Are there blocks on the rear axle? &nbsp;If so&#8230;solution could be traction bars  or replace stock springs and blocks for lift springs.  HH </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It would depend on how fast you are accelerating&#44; you maybe making the  transmission &quot;kick down&quot; to a lower gear. &nbsp;If it&#8217;s not that&#44; change  the transmission fuild and filter&#44; and put in a good synthetic fluid  like Mobil 1 (they make an auto transmission fluid). &nbsp;If you dont have  any luck&#44; take it to a mechanic and have them check it out.  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt;Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt;get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt;jumps forward.  &gt;My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  &gt;was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  &gt;a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt;vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt;Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt;Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>We could have used &nbsp;this info three years ago when our Suburban cooked the  transmssion.  To be fair we had no clue about tcc bore wear but we did experience &quot;hard&quot;  1- 2 shifts and slipping 2-3 shifts.Severe slipage at highway speeds in 4th  od with reflecting high coolant temps was our clue something was amiss&#8230;  The trans rebuilder was sure that the 3rd and 4th clutches and seals were  toast and recomended a rebuild.  With the unit on the bench torn down for inspection &#44;I noted that the afore  mentioned clutches were not worn or glazed.  I also noted the the condition of pressure regulating solenoid filter  (clogged) after asking the tech some questions about the valve body.He  proceded to move the valves where I noted one appeared stuck in the bore.I  don&#8217;t remember which one though.The valve body was not changed to my  knowledge. The trans fluid was burnt (a sign of heat) though the tech could  not isolate the source&#8230;couldn&#8217;t see inside the converter&#8230;  After many internals (steels for one) were replaced and solenoids and the  toque converter and a shift improver kit too we have been running trouble  free since.  I do feel taken however because my questions re heat and valves and clutch  condition were not answered.  Does a shift improver kit really work in an adaptive unit? I can&#8217;t tell as I  have not driven any other trucks with known good oem transmissions  installed.  Am I on the right track&#8230;.does the powertrain control module &quot;remember&quot;  operating conditions and then make adjustments accordingly?  Rolf </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>No problem. &nbsp;Here&#8217;s a link to a technical artical that discusses the  subject.  http://www.sonnax.com/bulletins/tech/TS-BW-699.pdf </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  &gt; obviously&#44; you can and did  &gt; but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  &gt; couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax  stuff  &gt; themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. > Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but  my > advice comes from direct experience. > TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with  the > Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I  forget > the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some > number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  &gt; tranny > starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My  converter > was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  &gt; the > hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is  if > you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid > having replace or rebuild the unit. > Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a  somewhat > modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The > valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque > converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse > longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear > problem. > If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44; > then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to > figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who  works > in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix. > I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > &gt; expertise? > &gt; &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  &gt; competent > &gt; &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  &gt; when > I > &gt; &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it  if > you > &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has > slipped > &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  &gt; of > a > &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar > valve > &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  obviously&#44; you can and did  but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax stuff  themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  &gt; advice comes from direct experience.  &gt; TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  &gt; Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  &gt; the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  &gt; number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  tranny  &gt; starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  &gt; was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  the  &gt; hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  &gt; you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  &gt; having replace or rebuild the unit.  &gt; Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  &gt; modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  &gt; valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  &gt; converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  &gt; longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  &gt; problem.  &gt; If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  &gt; then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  &gt; figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  &gt; in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  &gt; I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > expertise? > &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  competent > &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  when  &gt; I > &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  &gt; you > cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  &gt; slipped > until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  of  &gt; a > &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  &gt; valve > body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  advice comes from direct experience.  TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the tranny  starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in the  hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  having replace or rebuild the unit.  Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  problem.  If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  I took his advice&#44; and it worked. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>OK. &nbsp;Should one&#44; in your opinion&#44; upgrade a tranny that&#8217;s still working  right to avoid the problem or wait and plan on a complete rebuild when  necessary (rather than &quot;throwing parts at it&quot;)? </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It was worth a shot&#44; the end came off the trans on my hot rod&#44; made the same problem. &nbsp;  &nbsp; Grease&#44;  &nbsp; Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  &nbsp; Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Maybe your truck has a shift commander (shift improver) on it that is set to  the tow setting.  &#8212;  &#8212;  98 Camaro  Money can&#8217;t buy happiness&#44; but it sure makes misery easier to live with. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  expertise?  &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
<p>I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if you  cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has slipped  until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of a  &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar valve  body&#8217; repair spiel. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your expertise?  What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
<p>I spoke with a guy at the dealer&#44; and he said that late model autos have the  ability to readjust themselves to new driving styles&#44; and that the problem  was probably related to that. &nbsp;He said that it would probably go away in a  couple of days. &nbsp;Does that sound realistic&#44; or am I being jived? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>They do talk like computer people&#44; don&#8217;t they. Got their own language  and everything!  Seriously&#44; your best shot is to find a local independent AT rebuilder  who knows his stuff. Ask around. Visit the shop. Ask questions. If he  doesn&#8217;t savvy the valve body deal&#44; go elsewhere. Ask about warranties.  Sometimes you can ask around at 4&#215;4 shops and travel trailer shops for a  good tranny mechanic. The owner of your local NAPA might be able to  steer you to a good shop. You can always go the national rebuilder route  too&#44; like www.jetchip.com or www.tciauto.com. Pricey but good.  Hint: If you ever buy another GM truck&#44; get one with the 4L80E. It&#8217;s the  old TH400 on steroids. I&#8217;ve tried&#44; believe me&#44; I&#8217;ve really tried&#44; but  you just can&#8217;t break them.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text ->&gt;There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: >&gt;Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is >&gt;harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a >&gt;special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s >done&#44; >&gt;simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall >the >&gt;valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  &gt;well >&gt;replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes >the >&gt;hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  &gt;TCC >&gt;valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is >&gt;accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  &gt;insert >&gt;the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon >seal >&gt;that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; >visit >&gt;Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. >yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  &gt;slip >when you are finished.  &gt;Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  &gt;to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />   </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  &gt; Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  &gt; harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  &gt; special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  done&#44;  &gt; simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  the  &gt; valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  &gt; replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  the  &gt; hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  &gt; valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  &gt; accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  &gt; the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  seal  &gt; that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  visit  &gt; Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p>yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC slip  when you are finished. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Ah&#44; so *that&#8217;s* why I couldn&#8217;t find it. </p>
<p> Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>A lot of us have had the same problem. &nbsp;You have a 4L60E transmission. &nbsp;It&#8217;s  electronically controlled which means the shifts are solenoid actuated.  They switched to an aluminum valve body. &nbsp;Previously the valve bodies had  been cast iron.  GM has&#44; or had a problem with the TCC valve wearing the bore in the valve  body. &nbsp;That&#8217;s what&#8217;s happening to you. &nbsp;If you go to your dealer and have  him read the codes off your ECM they&#8217;ll no doubt tell you they&#8217;re getting a  P1870 code. &nbsp;It&#8217;s a general code that means the ECM sensed an internal  slippage. &nbsp;The hard shift is the result of the ECM commanding maximum line  pressure in order to accomplish the shifts without burning up clutches.  What&#8217;s happening internally is that the TCC&#44; or Torque Converter Clutch  valve has worn the bore and fluid is getting past it. &nbsp;This reduces pressure  in the circuit that actuates the torque converter lock-up. &nbsp;If you don&#8217;t fix  this&#44; sooner or later you&#8217;ll be replacing your torque converter.  Dealers who know what they&#8217;re doing will recommend a new valve body. &nbsp;It  will come with a longer TCC valve -presumably this one will rock less in the  bore and cause less wear. &nbsp;Clueless dealors will simply tell you to replace  the transmission with a new Serta unit. &nbsp;The first option costes $400-500;  the second upwards of $2&#44;000.  There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s done&#44;  simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall the  valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes the  hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon seal  that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; visit  Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  &gt;there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  &gt;to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  &gt;Grease >1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago. >Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I >get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably >jumps forward. >My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  &gt;I >was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  &gt;with >a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the >vehicle jump forward like it does. >Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed? >Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>There have been ppl saying the same thing abt harsh 1-2 shifts on  the full-size trucks &#8230; I think a computer update fixes it &#8230;  don&#8217;t know if it would be the same on yours or not but just a  thought </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from  a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle  noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad  mounts) and that I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had  happened to me with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts  wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Axle wrap?  Are there blocks on the rear axle? &nbsp;If so&#8230;solution could be traction bars  or replace stock springs and blocks for lift springs.  HH </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It would depend on how fast you are accelerating&#44; you maybe making the  transmission &quot;kick down&quot; to a lower gear. &nbsp;If it&#8217;s not that&#44; change  the transmission fuild and filter&#44; and put in a good synthetic fluid  like Mobil 1 (they make an auto transmission fluid). &nbsp;If you dont have  any luck&#44; take it to a mechanic and have them check it out.  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt;Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt;get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt;jumps forward.  &gt;My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  &gt;was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  &gt;a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt;vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt;Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt;Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>We could have used &nbsp;this info three years ago when our Suburban cooked the  transmssion.  To be fair we had no clue about tcc bore wear but we did experience &quot;hard&quot;  1- 2 shifts and slipping 2-3 shifts.Severe slipage at highway speeds in 4th  od with reflecting high coolant temps was our clue something was amiss&#8230;  The trans rebuilder was sure that the 3rd and 4th clutches and seals were  toast and recomended a rebuild.  With the unit on the bench torn down for inspection &#44;I noted that the afore  mentioned clutches were not worn or glazed.  I also noted the the condition of pressure regulating solenoid filter  (clogged) after asking the tech some questions about the valve body.He  proceded to move the valves where I noted one appeared stuck in the bore.I  don&#8217;t remember which one though.The valve body was not changed to my  knowledge. The trans fluid was burnt (a sign of heat) though the tech could  not isolate the source&#8230;couldn&#8217;t see inside the converter&#8230;  After many internals (steels for one) were replaced and solenoids and the  toque converter and a shift improver kit too we have been running trouble  free since.  I do feel taken however because my questions re heat and valves and clutch  condition were not answered.  Does a shift improver kit really work in an adaptive unit? I can&#8217;t tell as I  have not driven any other trucks with known good oem transmissions  installed.  Am I on the right track&#8230;.does the powertrain control module &quot;remember&quot;  operating conditions and then make adjustments accordingly?  Rolf </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>No problem. &nbsp;Here&#8217;s a link to a technical artical that discusses the  subject.  http://www.sonnax.com/bulletins/tech/TS-BW-699.pdf </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  &gt; obviously&#44; you can and did  &gt; but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  &gt; couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax  stuff  &gt; themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. > Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but  my > advice comes from direct experience. > TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with  the > Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I  forget > the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some > number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  &gt; tranny > starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My  converter > was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  &gt; the > hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is  if > you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid > having replace or rebuild the unit. > Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a  somewhat > modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The > valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque > converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse > longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear > problem. > If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44; > then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to > figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who  works > in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix. > I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > &gt; expertise? > &gt; &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  &gt; competent > &gt; &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  &gt; when > I > &gt; &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it  if > you > &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has > slipped > &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  &gt; of > a > &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar > valve > &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  obviously&#44; you can and did  but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax stuff  themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  &gt; advice comes from direct experience.  &gt; TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  &gt; Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  &gt; the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  &gt; number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  tranny  &gt; starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  &gt; was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  the  &gt; hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  &gt; you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  &gt; having replace or rebuild the unit.  &gt; Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  &gt; modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  &gt; valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  &gt; converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  &gt; longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  &gt; problem.  &gt; If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  &gt; then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  &gt; figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  &gt; in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  &gt; I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > expertise? > &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  competent > &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  when  &gt; I > &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  &gt; you > cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  &gt; slipped > until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  of  &gt; a > &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  &gt; valve > body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  advice comes from direct experience.  TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the tranny  starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in the  hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  having replace or rebuild the unit.  Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  problem.  If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  I took his advice&#44; and it worked. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>OK. &nbsp;Should one&#44; in your opinion&#44; upgrade a tranny that&#8217;s still working  right to avoid the problem or wait and plan on a complete rebuild when  necessary (rather than &quot;throwing parts at it&quot;)? </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It was worth a shot&#44; the end came off the trans on my hot rod&#44; made the same problem. &nbsp;  &nbsp; Grease&#44;  &nbsp; Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  &nbsp; Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Maybe your truck has a shift commander (shift improver) on it that is set to  the tow setting.  &#8212;  &#8212;  98 Camaro  Money can&#8217;t buy happiness&#44; but it sure makes misery easier to live with. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  expertise?  &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
<p>I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if you  cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has slipped  until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of a  &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar valve  body&#8217; repair spiel. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your expertise?  What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
<p>I spoke with a guy at the dealer&#44; and he said that late model autos have the  ability to readjust themselves to new driving styles&#44; and that the problem  was probably related to that. &nbsp;He said that it would probably go away in a  couple of days. &nbsp;Does that sound realistic&#44; or am I being jived? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>They do talk like computer people&#44; don&#8217;t they. Got their own language  and everything!  Seriously&#44; your best shot is to find a local independent AT rebuilder  who knows his stuff. Ask around. Visit the shop. Ask questions. If he  doesn&#8217;t savvy the valve body deal&#44; go elsewhere. Ask about warranties.  Sometimes you can ask around at 4&#215;4 shops and travel trailer shops for a  good tranny mechanic. The owner of your local NAPA might be able to  steer you to a good shop. You can always go the national rebuilder route  too&#44; like www.jetchip.com or www.tciauto.com. Pricey but good.  Hint: If you ever buy another GM truck&#44; get one with the 4L80E. It&#8217;s the  old TH400 on steroids. I&#8217;ve tried&#44; believe me&#44; I&#8217;ve really tried&#44; but  you just can&#8217;t break them.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text ->&gt;There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: >&gt;Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is >&gt;harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a >&gt;special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s >done&#44; >&gt;simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall >the >&gt;valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  &gt;well >&gt;replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes >the >&gt;hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  &gt;TCC >&gt;valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is >&gt;accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  &gt;insert >&gt;the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon >seal >&gt;that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; >visit >&gt;Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. >yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  &gt;slip >when you are finished.  &gt;Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  &gt;to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />   </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  &gt; Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  &gt; harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  &gt; special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  done&#44;  &gt; simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  the  &gt; valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  &gt; replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  the  &gt; hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  &gt; valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  &gt; accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  &gt; the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  seal  &gt; that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  visit  &gt; Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p>yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC slip  when you are finished. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Ah&#44; so *that&#8217;s* why I couldn&#8217;t find it. </p>
<p> Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>A lot of us have had the same problem. &nbsp;You have a 4L60E transmission. &nbsp;It&#8217;s  electronically controlled which means the shifts are solenoid actuated.  They switched to an aluminum valve body. &nbsp;Previously the valve bodies had  been cast iron.  GM has&#44; or had a problem with the TCC valve wearing the bore in the valve  body. &nbsp;That&#8217;s what&#8217;s happening to you. &nbsp;If you go to your dealer and have  him read the codes off your ECM they&#8217;ll no doubt tell you they&#8217;re getting a  P1870 code. &nbsp;It&#8217;s a general code that means the ECM sensed an internal  slippage. &nbsp;The hard shift is the result of the ECM commanding maximum line  pressure in order to accomplish the shifts without burning up clutches.  What&#8217;s happening internally is that the TCC&#44; or Torque Converter Clutch  valve has worn the bore and fluid is getting past it. &nbsp;This reduces pressure  in the circuit that actuates the torque converter lock-up. &nbsp;If you don&#8217;t fix  this&#44; sooner or later you&#8217;ll be replacing your torque converter.  Dealers who know what they&#8217;re doing will recommend a new valve body. &nbsp;It  will come with a longer TCC valve -presumably this one will rock less in the  bore and cause less wear. &nbsp;Clueless dealors will simply tell you to replace  the transmission with a new Serta unit. &nbsp;The first option costes $400-500;  the second upwards of $2&#44;000.  There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s done&#44;  simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall the  valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes the  hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon seal  that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; visit  Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  &gt;there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  &gt;to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  &gt;Grease >1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago. >Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I >get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably >jumps forward. >My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  &gt;I >was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  &gt;with >a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the >vehicle jump forward like it does. >Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed? >Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>There have been ppl saying the same thing abt harsh 1-2 shifts on  the full-size trucks &#8230; I think a computer update fixes it &#8230;  don&#8217;t know if it would be the same on yours or not but just a  thought </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from  a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle  noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad  mounts) and that I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had  happened to me with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts  wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Axle wrap?  Are there blocks on the rear axle? &nbsp;If so&#8230;solution could be traction bars  or replace stock springs and blocks for lift springs.  HH </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It would depend on how fast you are accelerating&#44; you maybe making the  transmission &quot;kick down&quot; to a lower gear. &nbsp;If it&#8217;s not that&#44; change  the transmission fuild and filter&#44; and put in a good synthetic fluid  like Mobil 1 (they make an auto transmission fluid). &nbsp;If you dont have  any luck&#44; take it to a mechanic and have them check it out.  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt;Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt;get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt;jumps forward.  &gt;My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  &gt;was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  &gt;a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt;vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt;Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt;Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>We could have used &nbsp;this info three years ago when our Suburban cooked the  transmssion.  To be fair we had no clue about tcc bore wear but we did experience &quot;hard&quot;  1- 2 shifts and slipping 2-3 shifts.Severe slipage at highway speeds in 4th  od with reflecting high coolant temps was our clue something was amiss&#8230;  The trans rebuilder was sure that the 3rd and 4th clutches and seals were  toast and recomended a rebuild.  With the unit on the bench torn down for inspection &#44;I noted that the afore  mentioned clutches were not worn or glazed.  I also noted the the condition of pressure regulating solenoid filter  (clogged) after asking the tech some questions about the valve body.He  proceded to move the valves where I noted one appeared stuck in the bore.I  don&#8217;t remember which one though.The valve body was not changed to my  knowledge. The trans fluid was burnt (a sign of heat) though the tech could  not isolate the source&#8230;couldn&#8217;t see inside the converter&#8230;  After many internals (steels for one) were replaced and solenoids and the  toque converter and a shift improver kit too we have been running trouble  free since.  I do feel taken however because my questions re heat and valves and clutch  condition were not answered.  Does a shift improver kit really work in an adaptive unit? I can&#8217;t tell as I  have not driven any other trucks with known good oem transmissions  installed.  Am I on the right track&#8230;.does the powertrain control module &quot;remember&quot;  operating conditions and then make adjustments accordingly?  Rolf </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>No problem. &nbsp;Here&#8217;s a link to a technical artical that discusses the  subject.  http://www.sonnax.com/bulletins/tech/TS-BW-699.pdf </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  &gt; obviously&#44; you can and did  &gt; but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  &gt; couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax  stuff  &gt; themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. > Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but  my > advice comes from direct experience. > TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with  the > Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I  forget > the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some > number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  &gt; tranny > starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My  converter > was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  &gt; the > hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is  if > you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid > having replace or rebuild the unit. > Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a  somewhat > modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The > valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque > converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse > longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear > problem. > If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44; > then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to > figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who  works > in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix. > I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > &gt; expertise? > &gt; &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  &gt; competent > &gt; &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  &gt; when > I > &gt; &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it  if > you > &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has > slipped > &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  &gt; of > a > &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar > valve > &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  obviously&#44; you can and did  but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax stuff  themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  &gt; advice comes from direct experience.  &gt; TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  &gt; Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  &gt; the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  &gt; number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  tranny  &gt; starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  &gt; was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  the  &gt; hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  &gt; you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  &gt; having replace or rebuild the unit.  &gt; Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  &gt; modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  &gt; valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  &gt; converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  &gt; longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  &gt; problem.  &gt; If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  &gt; then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  &gt; figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  &gt; in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  &gt; I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > expertise? > &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  competent > &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  when  &gt; I > &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  &gt; you > cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  &gt; slipped > until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  of  &gt; a > &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  &gt; valve > body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  advice comes from direct experience.  TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the tranny  starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in the  hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  having replace or rebuild the unit.  Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  problem.  If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  I took his advice&#44; and it worked. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>OK. &nbsp;Should one&#44; in your opinion&#44; upgrade a tranny that&#8217;s still working  right to avoid the problem or wait and plan on a complete rebuild when  necessary (rather than &quot;throwing parts at it&quot;)? </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It was worth a shot&#44; the end came off the trans on my hot rod&#44; made the same problem. &nbsp;  &nbsp; Grease&#44;  &nbsp; Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  &nbsp; Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Maybe your truck has a shift commander (shift improver) on it that is set to  the tow setting.  &#8212;  &#8212;  98 Camaro  Money can&#8217;t buy happiness&#44; but it sure makes misery easier to live with. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  expertise?  &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
<p>I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if you  cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has slipped  until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of a  &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar valve  body&#8217; repair spiel. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your expertise?  What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
<p>I spoke with a guy at the dealer&#44; and he said that late model autos have the  ability to readjust themselves to new driving styles&#44; and that the problem  was probably related to that. &nbsp;He said that it would probably go away in a  couple of days. &nbsp;Does that sound realistic&#44; or am I being jived? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>They do talk like computer people&#44; don&#8217;t they. Got their own language  and everything!  Seriously&#44; your best shot is to find a local independent AT rebuilder  who knows his stuff. Ask around. Visit the shop. Ask questions. If he  doesn&#8217;t savvy the valve body deal&#44; go elsewhere. Ask about warranties.  Sometimes you can ask around at 4&#215;4 shops and travel trailer shops for a  good tranny mechanic. The owner of your local NAPA might be able to  steer you to a good shop. You can always go the national rebuilder route  too&#44; like www.jetchip.com or www.tciauto.com. Pricey but good.  Hint: If you ever buy another GM truck&#44; get one with the 4L80E. It&#8217;s the  old TH400 on steroids. I&#8217;ve tried&#44; believe me&#44; I&#8217;ve really tried&#44; but  you just can&#8217;t break them.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text ->&gt;There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: >&gt;Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is >&gt;harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a >&gt;special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s >done&#44; >&gt;simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall >the >&gt;valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  &gt;well >&gt;replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes >the >&gt;hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  &gt;TCC >&gt;valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is >&gt;accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  &gt;insert >&gt;the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon >seal >&gt;that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; >visit >&gt;Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. >yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  &gt;slip >when you are finished.  &gt;Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  &gt;to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />   </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  &gt; Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  &gt; harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  &gt; special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  done&#44;  &gt; simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  the  &gt; valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  &gt; replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  the  &gt; hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  &gt; valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  &gt; accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  &gt; the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  seal  &gt; that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  visit  &gt; Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p>yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC slip  when you are finished. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Ah&#44; so *that&#8217;s* why I couldn&#8217;t find it. </p>
<p> Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>A lot of us have had the same problem. &nbsp;You have a 4L60E transmission. &nbsp;It&#8217;s  electronically controlled which means the shifts are solenoid actuated.  They switched to an aluminum valve body. &nbsp;Previously the valve bodies had  been cast iron.  GM has&#44; or had a problem with the TCC valve wearing the bore in the valve  body. &nbsp;That&#8217;s what&#8217;s happening to you. &nbsp;If you go to your dealer and have  him read the codes off your ECM they&#8217;ll no doubt tell you they&#8217;re getting a  P1870 code. &nbsp;It&#8217;s a general code that means the ECM sensed an internal  slippage. &nbsp;The hard shift is the result of the ECM commanding maximum line  pressure in order to accomplish the shifts without burning up clutches.  What&#8217;s happening internally is that the TCC&#44; or Torque Converter Clutch  valve has worn the bore and fluid is getting past it. &nbsp;This reduces pressure  in the circuit that actuates the torque converter lock-up. &nbsp;If you don&#8217;t fix  this&#44; sooner or later you&#8217;ll be replacing your torque converter.  Dealers who know what they&#8217;re doing will recommend a new valve body. &nbsp;It  will come with a longer TCC valve -presumably this one will rock less in the  bore and cause less wear. &nbsp;Clueless dealors will simply tell you to replace  the transmission with a new Serta unit. &nbsp;The first option costes $400-500;  the second upwards of $2&#44;000.  There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s done&#44;  simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall the  valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes the  hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon seal  that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; visit  Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  &gt;there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  &gt;to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  &gt;Grease >1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago. >Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I >get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably >jumps forward. >My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  &gt;I >was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  &gt;with >a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the >vehicle jump forward like it does. >Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed? >Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>There have been ppl saying the same thing abt harsh 1-2 shifts on  the full-size trucks &#8230; I think a computer update fixes it &#8230;  don&#8217;t know if it would be the same on yours or not but just a  thought </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from  a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle  noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad  mounts) and that I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had  happened to me with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts  wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Axle wrap?  Are there blocks on the rear axle? &nbsp;If so&#8230;solution could be traction bars  or replace stock springs and blocks for lift springs.  HH </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It would depend on how fast you are accelerating&#44; you maybe making the  transmission &quot;kick down&quot; to a lower gear. &nbsp;If it&#8217;s not that&#44; change  the transmission fuild and filter&#44; and put in a good synthetic fluid  like Mobil 1 (they make an auto transmission fluid). &nbsp;If you dont have  any luck&#44; take it to a mechanic and have them check it out.  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt;Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt;get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt;jumps forward.  &gt;My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  &gt;was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  &gt;a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt;vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt;Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt;Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>We could have used &nbsp;this info three years ago when our Suburban cooked the  transmssion.  To be fair we had no clue about tcc bore wear but we did experience &quot;hard&quot;  1- 2 shifts and slipping 2-3 shifts.Severe slipage at highway speeds in 4th  od with reflecting high coolant temps was our clue something was amiss&#8230;  The trans rebuilder was sure that the 3rd and 4th clutches and seals were  toast and recomended a rebuild.  With the unit on the bench torn down for inspection &#44;I noted that the afore  mentioned clutches were not worn or glazed.  I also noted the the condition of pressure regulating solenoid filter  (clogged) after asking the tech some questions about the valve body.He  proceded to move the valves where I noted one appeared stuck in the bore.I  don&#8217;t remember which one though.The valve body was not changed to my  knowledge. The trans fluid was burnt (a sign of heat) though the tech could  not isolate the source&#8230;couldn&#8217;t see inside the converter&#8230;  After many internals (steels for one) were replaced and solenoids and the  toque converter and a shift improver kit too we have been running trouble  free since.  I do feel taken however because my questions re heat and valves and clutch  condition were not answered.  Does a shift improver kit really work in an adaptive unit? I can&#8217;t tell as I  have not driven any other trucks with known good oem transmissions  installed.  Am I on the right track&#8230;.does the powertrain control module &quot;remember&quot;  operating conditions and then make adjustments accordingly?  Rolf </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>No problem. &nbsp;Here&#8217;s a link to a technical artical that discusses the  subject.  http://www.sonnax.com/bulletins/tech/TS-BW-699.pdf </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  &gt; obviously&#44; you can and did  &gt; but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  &gt; couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax  stuff  &gt; themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. > Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but  my > advice comes from direct experience. > TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with  the > Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I  forget > the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some > number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  &gt; tranny > starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My  converter > was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  &gt; the > hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is  if > you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid > having replace or rebuild the unit. > Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a  somewhat > modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The > valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque > converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse > longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear > problem. > If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44; > then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to > figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who  works > in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix. > I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > &gt; expertise? > &gt; &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  &gt; competent > &gt; &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  &gt; when > I > &gt; &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it  if > you > &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has > slipped > &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  &gt; of > a > &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar > valve > &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  obviously&#44; you can and did  but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax stuff  themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  &gt; advice comes from direct experience.  &gt; TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  &gt; Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  &gt; the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  &gt; number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  tranny  &gt; starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  &gt; was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  the  &gt; hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  &gt; you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  &gt; having replace or rebuild the unit.  &gt; Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  &gt; modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  &gt; valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  &gt; converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  &gt; longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  &gt; problem.  &gt; If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  &gt; then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  &gt; figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  &gt; in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  &gt; I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > expertise? > &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  competent > &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  when  &gt; I > &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  &gt; you > cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  &gt; slipped > until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  of  &gt; a > &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  &gt; valve > body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  advice comes from direct experience.  TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the tranny  starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in the  hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  having replace or rebuild the unit.  Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  problem.  If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  I took his advice&#44; and it worked. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>OK. &nbsp;Should one&#44; in your opinion&#44; upgrade a tranny that&#8217;s still working  right to avoid the problem or wait and plan on a complete rebuild when  necessary (rather than &quot;throwing parts at it&quot;)? </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It was worth a shot&#44; the end came off the trans on my hot rod&#44; made the same problem. &nbsp;  &nbsp; Grease&#44;  &nbsp; Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  &nbsp; Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Maybe your truck has a shift commander (shift improver) on it that is set to  the tow setting.  &#8212;  &#8212;  98 Camaro  Money can&#8217;t buy happiness&#44; but it sure makes misery easier to live with. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  expertise?  &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
<p>I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if you  cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has slipped  until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of a  &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar valve  body&#8217; repair spiel. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your expertise?  What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
<p>I spoke with a guy at the dealer&#44; and he said that late model autos have the  ability to readjust themselves to new driving styles&#44; and that the problem  was probably related to that. &nbsp;He said that it would probably go away in a  couple of days. &nbsp;Does that sound realistic&#44; or am I being jived? </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>They do talk like computer people&#44; don&#8217;t they. Got their own language  and everything!  Seriously&#44; your best shot is to find a local independent AT rebuilder  who knows his stuff. Ask around. Visit the shop. Ask questions. If he  doesn&#8217;t savvy the valve body deal&#44; go elsewhere. Ask about warranties.  Sometimes you can ask around at 4&#215;4 shops and travel trailer shops for a  good tranny mechanic. The owner of your local NAPA might be able to  steer you to a good shop. You can always go the national rebuilder route  too&#44; like www.jetchip.com or www.tciauto.com. Pricey but good.  Hint: If you ever buy another GM truck&#44; get one with the 4L80E. It&#8217;s the  old TH400 on steroids. I&#8217;ve tried&#44; believe me&#44; I&#8217;ve really tried&#44; but  you just can&#8217;t break them.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text ->&gt;There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: >&gt;Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is >&gt;harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a >&gt;special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s >done&#44; >&gt;simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall >the >&gt;valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  &gt;well >&gt;replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes >the >&gt;hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  &gt;TCC >&gt;valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is >&gt;accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  &gt;insert >&gt;the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon >seal >&gt;that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; >visit >&gt;Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. >yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  &gt;slip >when you are finished.  &gt;Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  &gt;to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />   </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  &gt; Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  &gt; harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  &gt; special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  done&#44;  &gt; simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  the  &gt; valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  &gt; replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  the  &gt; hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  &gt; valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  &gt; accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  &gt; the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  seal  &gt; that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  visit  &gt; Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p>yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC slip  when you are finished. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Ah&#44; so *that&#8217;s* why I couldn&#8217;t find it. </p>
<p> Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>A lot of us have had the same problem. &nbsp;You have a 4L60E transmission. &nbsp;It&#8217;s  electronically controlled which means the shifts are solenoid actuated.  They switched to an aluminum valve body. &nbsp;Previously the valve bodies had  been cast iron.  GM has&#44; or had a problem with the TCC valve wearing the bore in the valve  body. &nbsp;That&#8217;s what&#8217;s happening to you. &nbsp;If you go to your dealer and have  him read the codes off your ECM they&#8217;ll no doubt tell you they&#8217;re getting a  P1870 code. &nbsp;It&#8217;s a general code that means the ECM sensed an internal  slippage. &nbsp;The hard shift is the result of the ECM commanding maximum line  pressure in order to accomplish the shifts without burning up clutches.  What&#8217;s happening internally is that the TCC&#44; or Torque Converter Clutch  valve has worn the bore and fluid is getting past it. &nbsp;This reduces pressure  in the circuit that actuates the torque converter lock-up. &nbsp;If you don&#8217;t fix  this&#44; sooner or later you&#8217;ll be replacing your torque converter.  Dealers who know what they&#8217;re doing will recommend a new valve body. &nbsp;It  will come with a longer TCC valve -presumably this one will rock less in the  bore and cause less wear. &nbsp;Clueless dealors will simply tell you to replace  the transmission with a new Serta unit. &nbsp;The first option costes $400-500;  the second upwards of $2&#44;000.  There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s done&#44;  simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall the  valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes the  hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon seal  that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; visit  Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  &gt;there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  &gt;to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  &gt;Grease >1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago. >Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I >get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably >jumps forward. >My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  &gt;I >was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  &gt;with >a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the >vehicle jump forward like it does. >Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed? >Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>There have been ppl saying the same thing abt harsh 1-2 shifts on  the full-size trucks &#8230; I think a computer update fixes it &#8230;  don&#8217;t know if it would be the same on yours or not but just a  thought </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from  a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle  noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad  mounts) and that I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had  happened to me with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts  wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Axle wrap?  Are there blocks on the rear axle? &nbsp;If so&#8230;solution could be traction bars  or replace stock springs and blocks for lift springs.  HH </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It would depend on how fast you are accelerating&#44; you maybe making the  transmission &quot;kick down&quot; to a lower gear. &nbsp;If it&#8217;s not that&#44; change  the transmission fuild and filter&#44; and put in a good synthetic fluid  like Mobil 1 (they make an auto transmission fluid). &nbsp;If you dont have  any luck&#44; take it to a mechanic and have them check it out.  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt;Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt;get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt;jumps forward.  &gt;My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  &gt;was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  &gt;a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt;vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt;Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt;Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>We could have used &nbsp;this info three years ago when our Suburban cooked the  transmssion.  To be fair we had no clue about tcc bore wear but we did experience &quot;hard&quot;  1- 2 shifts and slipping 2-3 shifts.Severe slipage at highway speeds in 4th  od with reflecting high coolant temps was our clue something was amiss&#8230;  The trans rebuilder was sure that the 3rd and 4th clutches and seals were  toast and recomended a rebuild.  With the unit on the bench torn down for inspection &#44;I noted that the afore  mentioned clutches were not worn or glazed.  I also noted the the condition of pressure regulating solenoid filter  (clogged) after asking the tech some questions about the valve body.He  proceded to move the valves where I noted one appeared stuck in the bore.I  don&#8217;t remember which one though.The valve body was not changed to my  knowledge. The trans fluid was burnt (a sign of heat) though the tech could  not isolate the source&#8230;couldn&#8217;t see inside the converter&#8230;  After many internals (steels for one) were replaced and solenoids and the  toque converter and a shift improver kit too we have been running trouble  free since.  I do feel taken however because my questions re heat and valves and clutch  condition were not answered.  Does a shift improver kit really work in an adaptive unit? I can&#8217;t tell as I  have not driven any other trucks with known good oem transmissions  installed.  Am I on the right track&#8230;.does the powertrain control module &quot;remember&quot;  operating conditions and then make adjustments accordingly?  Rolf </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>No problem. &nbsp;Here&#8217;s a link to a technical artical that discusses the  subject.  http://www.sonnax.com/bulletins/tech/TS-BW-699.pdf </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  &gt; obviously&#44; you can and did  &gt; but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  &gt; couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax  stuff  &gt; themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. > Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but  my > advice comes from direct experience. > TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with  the > Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I  forget > the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some > number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  &gt; tranny > starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My  converter > was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  &gt; the > hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is  if > you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid > having replace or rebuild the unit. > Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a  somewhat > modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The > valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque > converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse > longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear > problem. > If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44; > then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to > figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who  works > in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix. > I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > &gt; expertise? > &gt; &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  &gt; competent > &gt; &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  &gt; when > I > &gt; &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it  if > you > &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has > slipped > &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  &gt; of > a > &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar > valve > &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>hey&#44; I said &#8216;if you cannot monitor TC slip with a scan tool&#8217;  obviously&#44; you can and did  but I get at least two customers a month in here&#44; who  couldn&#8217;t/wouldn&#8217;t/didn&#8217;t&#44; but who went ahead and installed the Sonnax stuff  themselves&#44; and are now PISSED that it STILL &#8216;doesn&#8217;t work&#8217;. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  &gt; advice comes from direct experience.  &gt; TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  &gt; Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  &gt; the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  &gt; number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the  tranny  &gt; starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  &gt; was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in  the  &gt; hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  &gt; you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  &gt; having replace or rebuild the unit.  &gt; Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  &gt; modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  &gt; valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  &gt; converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  &gt; longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  &gt; problem.  &gt; If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  &gt; then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  &gt; figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  &gt; in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  &gt; I took his advice&#44; and it worked. > &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your > expertise? > &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a  competent > &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent  when  &gt; I > &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. > I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  &gt; you > cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards. > All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  &gt; slipped > until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp. > And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point  of  &gt; a > &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  &gt; valve > body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Gary&#44; not meaning to dispute your vast knowledge of transmissions&#44; but my  advice comes from direct experience.  TCC slip can be measured using a Tech 2. &nbsp;We ran one of my trucks with the  Tech 2 plugged in. &nbsp;It was showing about 120 rpm converter slip. &nbsp;I forget  the spec&#44; but if the tranny slips at around 130 rpm for more than some  number of seconds (I think around 7)&#44; the P1870 code gets set and the tranny  starts shifting hard. &nbsp;The problem is intermittant at first. &nbsp;My converter  was no doubt broaching those thresholds from time to time&#44; resulting in the  hard shifts I was getting. &nbsp;Thurman&#8217;s most likely is too. All I know is if  you take care of it before the converter wears too much&#44; you can avoid  having replace or rebuild the unit.  Not to further confuse the issue&#44; but Thurman&#8217;s &#8216;98 likely has a somewhat  modified tranny that comes with a carbon fibre torque converter. &nbsp;The  valving is a little different to permit greater slippage of the torque  converter during lock-up so I&#8217;d guess his converter can take more abuse  longer than my &#8216;97 could.. &nbsp;Even so&#44; they still have the TCC bore wear  problem.  If Thurman can find someone with a Tech 2 to measure his converter slip&#44;  then he can do the same as I did. &nbsp;All I know is&#44; it took me a year to  figure out that this was the problem. &nbsp;Finally&#44; a friend of mine who works  in product development at GM Hydramatic turned me on to the fix.  I took his advice&#44; and it worked. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>OK. &nbsp;Should one&#44; in your opinion&#44; upgrade a tranny that&#8217;s still working  right to avoid the problem or wait and plan on a complete rebuild when  necessary (rather than &quot;throwing parts at it&quot;)? </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  &gt; expertise? > What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent > tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when  I > talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks.  &gt; I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if  you  &gt; cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  &gt; All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has  slipped  &gt; until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  &gt; And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of  a  &gt; &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar  valve  &gt; body&#8217; repair spiel.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It was worth a shot&#44; the end came off the trans on my hot rod&#44; made the same problem. &nbsp;  &nbsp; Grease&#44;  &nbsp; Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  &nbsp; Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Maybe your truck has a shift commander (shift improver) on it that is set to  the tow setting.  &#8212;  &#8212;  98 Camaro  Money can&#8217;t buy happiness&#44; but it sure makes misery easier to live with. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your  expertise?  &gt; What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  &gt; tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  &gt; talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
<p>I disagree with throwing parts (the Sonnax valve&#44; in this case) at it if you  cannot monitor &#8216;TCC slip&#8217; with a scan tool afterwards.  All the Sonnax parts in the world will NOT fix a converter that has slipped  until the lock-up clutch material has glazed or burnt to a crisp.  And&#44; usually&#44; by the time it is noticeable (code) it is past the point of a  &#8217;simple fix&#8217;&#44; contrary to GM&#8217;s official &#8216;let us sell you a 700 dollar valve  body&#8217; repair spiel. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Gary&#44; can you explain your comments so we can all learn from your expertise?  What part of &nbsp;knuckles advice do you disagree with? &nbsp;I have a competent  tranny guy I go to but I like to sound at least halfway intelligent when I  talk to him. &nbsp;Thanks. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
<p>I spoke with a guy at the dealer&#44; and he said that late model autos have the  ability to readjust themselves to new driving styles&#44; and that the problem  was probably related to that. &nbsp;He said that it would probably go away in a  couple of days. &nbsp;Does that sound realistic&#44; or am I being jived? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>They do talk like computer people&#44; don&#8217;t they. Got their own language  and everything!  Seriously&#44; your best shot is to find a local independent AT rebuilder  who knows his stuff. Ask around. Visit the shop. Ask questions. If he  doesn&#8217;t savvy the valve body deal&#44; go elsewhere. Ask about warranties.  Sometimes you can ask around at 4&#215;4 shops and travel trailer shops for a  good tranny mechanic. The owner of your local NAPA might be able to  steer you to a good shop. You can always go the national rebuilder route  too&#44; like www.jetchip.com or www.tciauto.com. Pricey but good.  Hint: If you ever buy another GM truck&#44; get one with the 4L80E. It&#8217;s the  old TH400 on steroids. I&#8217;ve tried&#44; believe me&#44; I&#8217;ve really tried&#44; but  you just can&#8217;t break them.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text ->&gt;There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: >&gt;Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is >&gt;harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a >&gt;special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s >done&#44; >&gt;simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall >the >&gt;valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  &gt;well >&gt;replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes >the >&gt;hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  &gt;TCC >&gt;valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is >&gt;accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  &gt;insert >&gt;the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon >seal >&gt;that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; >visit >&gt;Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. >yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  &gt;slip >when you are finished.  &gt;Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  &gt;to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />   </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough: > Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is > harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a > special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  &gt; done&#44; > simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  &gt; the > valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as  well > replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  &gt; the > hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the  TCC > valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is > accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and  insert > the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  &gt; seal > that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  &gt; visit > Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com.  &gt; yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC  slip  &gt; when you are finished. </p>
<p>Does anybody know of a good Transmission-to-English dictionary I could use  to figure out what these guys are talking about? <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  &gt; Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  &gt; harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  &gt; special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s  done&#44;  &gt; simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall  the  &gt; valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  &gt; replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes  the  &gt; hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  &gt; valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  &gt; accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  &gt; the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon  seal  &gt; that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44;  visit  &gt; Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p>yes&#44; by all means&#44; go ahead and do that without being able to check TCC slip  when you are finished. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Ah&#44; so *that&#8217;s* why I couldn&#8217;t find it. </p>
<p> Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean </p>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>A lot of us have had the same problem. &nbsp;You have a 4L60E transmission. &nbsp;It&#8217;s  electronically controlled which means the shifts are solenoid actuated.  They switched to an aluminum valve body. &nbsp;Previously the valve bodies had  been cast iron.  GM has&#44; or had a problem with the TCC valve wearing the bore in the valve  body. &nbsp;That&#8217;s what&#8217;s happening to you. &nbsp;If you go to your dealer and have  him read the codes off your ECM they&#8217;ll no doubt tell you they&#8217;re getting a  P1870 code. &nbsp;It&#8217;s a general code that means the ECM sensed an internal  slippage. &nbsp;The hard shift is the result of the ECM commanding maximum line  pressure in order to accomplish the shifts without burning up clutches.  What&#8217;s happening internally is that the TCC&#44; or Torque Converter Clutch  valve has worn the bore and fluid is getting past it. &nbsp;This reduces pressure  in the circuit that actuates the torque converter lock-up. &nbsp;If you don&#8217;t fix  this&#44; sooner or later you&#8217;ll be replacing your torque converter.  Dealers who know what they&#8217;re doing will recommend a new valve body. &nbsp;It  will come with a longer TCC valve -presumably this one will rock less in the  bore and cause less wear. &nbsp;Clueless dealors will simply tell you to replace  the transmission with a new Serta unit. &nbsp;The first option costes $400-500;  the second upwards of $2&#44;000.  There is a third option if you want to do it right&#44; and save some dough:  Sonnax makes a TCC valve kit that includes a new sleeve. &nbsp;The sleeve is  harder than the current bore. &nbsp;The kit costs around $65. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll need a  special reamer they sell for $75 to open up the TCC bore. &nbsp;Once that&#8217;s done&#44;  simply insert the sleeve&#44; put in the new spring and valve&#44; and reinstall the  valve body. &nbsp;By the way&#44; when you have the valve body out&#44; you may as well  replace the TCC apply valve with Sonnax&#8217;s aftermarket valve. &nbsp;Sometimes the  hard shift can come from failure of this part but most often it&#8217;s the TCC  valve. &nbsp;The TCC &quot;Apply&quot; valve is located in the pump itself&#44; and is  accessable with the valve body out. &nbsp;Just pull the old one out&#44; and insert  the new replacement. &nbsp;The new one fits the bore better and has a teflon seal  that the OEM part doesn&#8217;t have. It&#8217;s about $35. &nbsp;For more informaion&#44; visit  Sonnax&#8217;s web site at www.sonnax.com. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  Grease </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Grease&#44;  Vacuum modulators died with the invention of electronic transmissions.  Dean  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;Look on the vacuum modulator on the trans or the rubber fittings either  &gt;there or where it plums into the intake. A vacuum leak will cause your trans  &gt;to shift at a higher rpm&#44; and it will be harsher.  &gt;Grease >1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago. >Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I >get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably >jumps forward. >My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  &gt;I >was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  &gt;with >a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the >vehicle jump forward like it does. >Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed? >Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>There have been ppl saying the same thing abt harsh 1-2 shifts on  the full-size trucks &#8230; I think a computer update fixes it &#8230;  don&#8217;t know if it would be the same on yours or not but just a  thought </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from  a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle  noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad  mounts) and that I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had  happened to me with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts  wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Axle wrap?  Are there blocks on the rear axle? &nbsp;If so&#8230;solution could be traction bars  or replace stock springs and blocks for lift springs.  HH </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; 1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt; Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt; get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt; jumps forward.  &gt; My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that  I  &gt; was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me  with  &gt; a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt; vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt; Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt; Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>It would depend on how fast you are accelerating&#44; you maybe making the  transmission &quot;kick down&quot; to a lower gear. &nbsp;If it&#8217;s not that&#44; change  the transmission fuild and filter&#44; and put in a good synthetic fluid  like Mobil 1 (they make an auto transmission fluid). &nbsp;If you dont have  any luck&#44; take it to a mechanic and have them check it out.  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt;1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  &gt;Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  &gt;get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  &gt;jumps forward.  &gt;My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  &gt;was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  &gt;a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  &gt;vehicle jump forward like it does.  &gt;Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  &gt;Any suggestions or recommendations?  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>1998 Chevy Blazer 4&#215;4 4-door. Just bought it a few days ago.  Great vehicle&#44; but sometimes (often) when I&#8217;m accelerating from a stop&#44; I  get a &quot;kick in the pants&quot; when I hit second gear. &nbsp;The vehicle noticeably  jumps forward.  My first reaction was to think it was a loose motor (bad mounts) and that I  was feeling the clunk when the torque drops it (that had happened to me with  a previous vehicle). &nbsp;But then I figured that bad mounts wouldn&#8217;t make the  vehicle jump forward like it does.  Maybe I just need to get the transmission flushed?  Any suggestions or recommendations? </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Parnate + orthostatic hypotension</title>
		<link>http://maois101.org/tranylcypromine-parnate/parnate-orthostatic-hypotension-4202.html</link>
		<comments>http://maois101.org/tranylcypromine-parnate/parnate-orthostatic-hypotension-4202.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jun 2002 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tranylcypromine (Parnate)]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://maois.org/uncategorized/parnate-orthostatic-hypotension-4202.html</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question:
hey guys&#44; i&#8217;m wondering&#44; what is the worst part about orthostatic  hypotension?  for example&#44; &#8230;&#8230; if i exercise&#44; will i pass out&#44; .. or will it raise  my BP and be okay?  any secrets to managing it?  cheers 

Response:
I forgot to reply to this question last night. &#160;From what I [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h4><strong>Question:</strong></h4>
<p>hey guys&#44; i&#8217;m wondering&#44; what is the worst part about orthostatic  hypotension?  for example&#44; &#8230;&#8230; if i exercise&#44; will i pass out&#44; .. or will it raise  my BP and be okay?  any secrets to managing it?  cheers </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>I forgot to reply to this question last night. &nbsp;From what I know about it&#44;  one of the ways they know you are at your limit for how much medicine to  take is when your blood pressure gets too low (on a regular basis). &nbsp;I  stopped at 100mg because when I would stand up after sitting or get up in  the morning I would feel very dizzy. &nbsp;That is also why my doctor takes my  blood pressure every visit&#44; both sitting and standing. &nbsp;I would guess  exercising is going to be subjective also. &nbsp;The best idea is to start slow&#44;  take your pulse and/or blood pressure if you can&#44; and concentrate on how you  feel as you&#8217;re exercising. &nbsp;Pay attention if you start feeling dizzy or  light-headed. &nbsp;I really recommend a home blood pressure kit if you can  afford one.  As to blood pressure kits&#44; I looked for a long time. &nbsp;I finally decided I  wouldn&#8217;t be able to handle a manual kit in an emergency and bought an  automatic one. &nbsp;I also researched and found that the wrist and finger  machines aren&#8217;t as accurate or reliable&#44; so I bought an arm one. &nbsp;Omron  seems to be a good brand and Costco (if you have one) sells them the  cheapest at $45.00 in the stores. &nbsp;One other thing to keep in mind&#44; is that  the standard arm cuff that comes with machines is 13&quot;-17&quot;&#44; since I&#8217;m a bit  heavy I had to buy a larger one at $25.00 (didn&#8217;t find it cheaper anywhere &#8211;  seems to be a fixed price). &nbsp;It&#8217;s quite a bit of money to lay out&#44; but a  good idea.  Good luck&#44;  Jessica </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; hey guys&#44; i&#8217;m wondering&#44; what is the worst part about orthostatic  &gt; hypotension?  &gt; for example&#44; &#8230;&#8230; if i exercise&#44; will i pass out&#44; .. or will it raise  &gt; my BP and be okay?  &gt; any secrets to managing it?  &gt; cheers  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Orthostatic hypotension will eventually go away. Just remember to rise  slowly till it does. I almost passed out at my doctor&#8217;s office once  when I got up to quickly. Guess I couldn&#8217;t have been at a better  place.  My depression had been treatment resistant for some time. My PDOC  eventually added an amphetamine to the Parnate to treat the TRD&#44; but  it also helped with the orthostatic hypotension. This is usally  considered very dangerous since combing these drugs can create a  hypertensive crisis. I had no problem however. Most doctors won&#8217;t do  this but please don&#8217;t do it on your on. Do it under a PDOC&#8217;s  supervision and make sure he gives you that antidote blood pressure  pill. Can&#8217;t remember the name of it right now but others on this site  will know what I&#8217;m talking about.  Curious&#44; anybody else on the site every taken a combination of MAOI  and an ampheamine.?  hey guys&#44; i&#8217;m wondering&#44; what is the worst part about orthostatic  hypotension?  for example&#44; &#8230;&#8230; if i exercise&#44; will i pass out&#44; .. or will it  raise  my BP and be okay?  any secrets to managing it?  cheers </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>I know others have because it&#8217;s been mentioned on Psycho-Babble (a great  site&#44; btw). &nbsp;The emergency pill I was given is Chlorpromazine (Thorazine).  I&#8217;ve used it once and it worked great. &nbsp;The only side effect was being  pretty sleepy and out of it (tired) for a good day afterward. &nbsp;But that&#8217;s  much better than a heart attack or stroke.  I would really like to try amphetamine with the MAOI. &nbsp;I feel much better  than I have in years on the Parnate but I still don&#8217;t feel like I&#8217;m there  yet. &nbsp;We&#8217;re trying different augmentations but I&#8217;m a little frustrated with  my doctor right now because she doesn&#8217;t want to try anything not  &quot;sanctioned&quot;. &nbsp;I&#8217;ve heard of success with several meds that aren&#8217;t  technically supposed to be prescribed with MAOIs. &nbsp;I guess I just need to  show her an article or two. &nbsp;She&#8217;s usually pretty easy going.  -Jessica </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; Orthostatic hypotension will eventually go away. Just remember to rise  &gt; slowly till it does. I almost passed out at my doctor&#8217;s office once  &gt; when I got up to quickly. Guess I couldn&#8217;t have been at a better  &gt; place.  &gt; My depression had been treatment resistant for some time. My PDOC  &gt; eventually added an amphetamine to the Parnate to treat the TRD&#44; but  &gt; it also helped with the orthostatic hypotension. This is usally  &gt; considered very dangerous since combing these drugs can create a  &gt; hypertensive crisis. I had no problem however. Most doctors won&#8217;t do  &gt; this but please don&#8217;t do it on your on. Do it under a PDOC&#8217;s  &gt; supervision and make sure he gives you that antidote blood pressure  &gt; pill. Can&#8217;t remember the name of it right now but others on this site  &gt; will know what I&#8217;m talking about.  &gt; Curious&#44; anybody else on the site every taken a combination of MAOI  &gt; and an ampheamine.?  &gt; hey guys&#44; i&#8217;m wondering&#44; what is the worst part about orthostatic  &gt; hypotension?  &gt; for example&#44; &#8230;&#8230; if i exercise&#44; will i pass out&#44; .. or will it  &gt; raise  &gt; my BP and be okay?  &gt; any secrets to managing it?  &gt; cheers  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4></p>
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		<title>Bipolar II treatment with Lamictal</title>
		<link>http://maois101.org/tranylcypromine-parnate/bipolar-ii-treatment-with-lamictal-338038.html</link>
		<comments>http://maois101.org/tranylcypromine-parnate/bipolar-ii-treatment-with-lamictal-338038.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2002 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tranylcypromine (Parnate)]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://maois.org/uncategorized/bipolar-ii-treatment-with-lamictal-338038.html</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question:
My doc has me starting at 25mg. &#160;I have decent insurance which covers my  meds.  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&#62; taper up really slow.. not just to avoid rash but also to avoid mania. &#160;I  hope  &#62; you have good prescription coverage.. Lamictal 
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h4><strong>Question:</strong></h4>
<p>My doc has me starting at 25mg. &nbsp;I have decent insurance which covers my  meds.  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; taper up really slow.. not just to avoid rash but also to avoid mania. &nbsp;I  hope  &gt; you have good prescription coverage.. Lamictal </p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Manowar Cums Into Canada!</title>
		<link>http://maois101.org/maios/manowar-cums-into-canada-212218.html</link>
		<comments>http://maois101.org/maios/manowar-cums-into-canada-212218.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2002 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[MAIOs]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://maois.org/uncategorized/manowar-cums-into-canada-212218.html</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question:
  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Re: Manowar Cums Into Canada!  &#62; Were they standing on the border somewhere?  &#62; Yes&#44; neither country wanted to let them in due to lack of talent or  purpose.  &#62; http://www.gary-hendershot.com/  &#62; Houston&#44; Tejas&#44; Estados Unidos  

Response:
 &#62;&#62;&#62; [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h4><strong>Question:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Re: Manowar Cums Into Canada!  &gt; Were they standing on the border somewhere?  &gt; Yes&#44; neither country wanted to let them in due to lack of talent or  purpose.  &gt; http://www.gary-hendershot.com/  &gt; Houston&#44; Tejas&#44; Estados Unidos  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt;&gt;&gt; Re: Manowar Cums Into Canada! > Were they standing on the border somewhere? </p>
<p> &gt; Yes&#44; neither country wanted to let them in due to lack of  &gt; talent or purpose </p>
<p> Well&#44; they probably got a lot of public exposure if they were  somewhere around Niagra Falls&#44; NY area. &nbsp;  http://www.gary-hendershot.com/  Houston&#44; Tejas&#44; Estados Unidos </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>yuk!!  georgio  &#8212;  Remove the *NOSPAM* part in my email if you reply.. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>&gt; Re: Manowar Cums Into Canada! </p>
<p>Were they standing on the border somewhere? &nbsp;  http://www.gary-hendershot.com/  Houston&#44; Tejas&#44; Estados Unidos </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>I wonder what &nbsp;Canada thinks of their ejaculations&#8230;.  &#8212;  &nbsp; /&quot; &nbsp;ASCII Ribbon Campaign &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;| Todd H  &nbsp;  / &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; | http://www.toddh.net/  &nbsp; &nbsp;X &nbsp; Promoting good netiquette &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;| http://triplethreatband.com/  &nbsp; /  &nbsp;http://www.toddh.net/netiquette/ &nbsp; &nbsp; | &quot;4 lines suffice.&quot; </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Not only that&#44; but Manowar is in no position to lecture anyone; they were  most likely playing for the door anyway. It&#8217;s always tough when you&#8217;re a  legend in your own mind.  &#8212;  John </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; Ick&#44; and some piss-poor writing as well. > On Tuesday May 21 2003&#44; for the first time in their 20 year existence&#44; > Manowar played a gig in the city of Toronto at a venue called The Opera > House. &nbsp;What was like for us Canadians to finally get to see Manowar. > Well have you ever seen that episode of Seinfeld about &quot;The Soup Nazi&quot;? > Well can you imagine if the &quot;Soup Nazi&quot; were a heavy metal band. > &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;The band comes on stage with an incredibly loud sound system. &nbsp;The > guitarist used three 9 X 12 cabs&#44; the bassist four 4 X 15 cabs&#44; plus > their > own mega PA system. &nbsp;It was deafening. &nbsp;Well once the band starts > playing&#44; > the audience gets a mosh thing going and one of the audience members > gets > lifted into the air and pushed towards the stage. &nbsp;Manowar stops playing > in the middle of their second song &quot;Blood of my Enemies&quot; and bassist > Joey > DeMaio takes the mic and starts lecturing the audience. &nbsp;To the best of > my > recollection&#44; his words were &quot;Keep your asses on the floor where they > belong&#44; > not in the fucking air. &nbsp;Don&#8217;t make me come down there(into the > audience)&#44; > because If I have to come down there&#44; you&#8217;re going to get put in the > hospital&quot;. > With that warning&#44; the band resumed playing mid song where they left > off. > They play a couple of more songs and the mosh starts going again and the > same > guy gets lifted into the air and passed towards the stage. &nbsp;Once again > Manowar > stops playing and the bassist once more takes the mic. &nbsp;&quot;This is the > second > time I&#8217;ve had to warn you. &nbsp;It&#8217;s taken 20 years to bring Manowar to > Canada&#44; > if this happens a third time&#44; its all over.&quot; &nbsp;The band resumed playing > and > after a few more songs&#44; the audience started moshing again. &nbsp;The same > guy > go lifted into the air&#44; but this time the singer pointed him out to the > security&#44; who went and grabbed him and escorted him out of the building. > The band resumed playing and finished most of their set. &nbsp;Then towards > the > end of the set they stopped again&#44; so bassist Joey DeMaio could give a > speech > (yes a speech) to the audience. &nbsp;In it&#44; he explained that all those > rumours > that Manowar didn&#8217;t like Toronto or didn&#8217;t like Canada weren&#8217;t true. > The > reason it has taken Manowar 20 years to come into Canada was because all > the > promoters and people that run the radio stations have VERY TINY BALLS! > &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Aside from the attitude problems&#44; Manowar did play an immaculate&#44; > though > somewhat overly loud&#44; set. &nbsp;Too bad it was not 1983 anymore&#44; when their > sound > could still be considered cutting edge. &nbsp;Truly Manowar are the&quot;RAGING > BULL&quot; > of metal. > &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;The opening act&#44; Immortal&#44; was the epitome of class when they > performed > and their guitarist sounded just as heavy using a single Marshall cab as > Manowar > did using their entire huge sound system. &nbsp;Plus the guitarist in Manowar > breathed > fire&#44; whilst Manowar only breathered hot air.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Ick&#44; and some piss-poor writing as well. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; On Tuesday May 21 2003&#44; for the first time in their 20 year existence&#44;  &gt; Manowar played a gig in the city of Toronto at a venue called The Opera  &gt; House. &nbsp;What was like for us Canadians to finally get to see Manowar.  &gt; Well have you ever seen that episode of Seinfeld about &quot;The Soup Nazi&quot;?  &gt; Well can you imagine if the &quot;Soup Nazi&quot; were a heavy metal band.  &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;The band comes on stage with an incredibly loud sound system. &nbsp;The  &gt; guitarist used three 9 X 12 cabs&#44; the bassist four 4 X 15 cabs&#44; plus  &gt; their  &gt; own mega PA system. &nbsp;It was deafening. &nbsp;Well once the band starts  &gt; playing&#44;  &gt; the audience gets a mosh thing going and one of the audience members  &gt; gets  &gt; lifted into the air and pushed towards the stage. &nbsp;Manowar stops playing  &gt; in the middle of their second song &quot;Blood of my Enemies&quot; and bassist  &gt; Joey  &gt; DeMaio takes the mic and starts lecturing the audience. &nbsp;To the best of  &gt; my  &gt; recollection&#44; his words were &quot;Keep your asses on the floor where they  &gt; belong&#44;  &gt; not in the fucking air. &nbsp;Don&#8217;t make me come down there(into the  &gt; audience)&#44;  &gt; because If I have to come down there&#44; you&#8217;re going to get put in the  &gt; hospital&quot;.  &gt; With that warning&#44; the band resumed playing mid song where they left  &gt; off.  &gt; They play a couple of more songs and the mosh starts going again and the  &gt; same  &gt; guy gets lifted into the air and passed towards the stage. &nbsp;Once again  &gt; Manowar  &gt; stops playing and the bassist once more takes the mic. &nbsp;&quot;This is the  &gt; second  &gt; time I&#8217;ve had to warn you. &nbsp;It&#8217;s taken 20 years to bring Manowar to  &gt; Canada&#44;  &gt; if this happens a third time&#44; its all over.&quot; &nbsp;The band resumed playing  &gt; and  &gt; after a few more songs&#44; the audience started moshing again. &nbsp;The same  &gt; guy  &gt; go lifted into the air&#44; but this time the singer pointed him out to the  &gt; security&#44; who went and grabbed him and escorted him out of the building.  &gt; The band resumed playing and finished most of their set. &nbsp;Then towards  &gt; the  &gt; end of the set they stopped again&#44; so bassist Joey DeMaio could give a  &gt; speech  &gt; (yes a speech) to the audience. &nbsp;In it&#44; he explained that all those  &gt; rumours  &gt; that Manowar didn&#8217;t like Toronto or didn&#8217;t like Canada weren&#8217;t true.  &gt; The  &gt; reason it has taken Manowar 20 years to come into Canada was because all  &gt; the  &gt; promoters and people that run the radio stations have VERY TINY BALLS!  &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Aside from the attitude problems&#44; Manowar did play an immaculate&#44;  &gt; though  &gt; somewhat overly loud&#44; set. &nbsp;Too bad it was not 1983 anymore&#44; when their  &gt; sound  &gt; could still be considered cutting edge. &nbsp;Truly Manowar are the&quot;RAGING  &gt; BULL&quot;  &gt; of metal.  &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;The opening act&#44; Immortal&#44; was the epitome of class when they  &gt; performed  &gt; and their guitarist sounded just as heavy using a single Marshall cab as  &gt; Manowar  &gt; did using their entire huge sound system. &nbsp;Plus the guitarist in Manowar  &gt; breathed  &gt; fire&#44; whilst Manowar only breathered hot air.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>On Tuesday May 21 2003&#44; for the first time in their 20 year existence&#44;  Manowar played a gig in the city of Toronto at a venue called The Opera  House. &nbsp;What was like for us Canadians to finally get to see Manowar. &nbsp;  Well have you ever seen that episode of Seinfeld about &quot;The Soup Nazi&quot;?  Well can you imagine if the &quot;Soup Nazi&quot; were a heavy metal band.  &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;The band comes on stage with an incredibly loud sound system. &nbsp;The  guitarist used three 9 X 12 cabs&#44; the bassist four 4 X 15 cabs&#44; plus  their  own mega PA system. &nbsp;It was deafening. &nbsp;Well once the band starts  playing&#44;  the audience gets a mosh thing going and one of the audience members  gets  lifted into the air and pushed towards the stage. &nbsp;Manowar stops playing  in the middle of their second song &quot;Blood of my Enemies&quot; and bassist  Joey  DeMaio takes the mic and starts lecturing the audience. &nbsp;To the best of  my  recollection&#44; his words were &quot;Keep your asses on the floor where they  belong&#44;  not in the fucking air. &nbsp;Don&#8217;t make me come down there(into the  audience)&#44;  because If I have to come down there&#44; you&#8217;re going to get put in the  hospital&quot;.  With that warning&#44; the band resumed playing mid song where they left  off.  They play a couple of more songs and the mosh starts going again and the  same  guy gets lifted into the air and passed towards the stage. &nbsp;Once again  Manowar  stops playing and the bassist once more takes the mic. &nbsp;&quot;This is the  second  time I&#8217;ve had to warn you. &nbsp;It&#8217;s taken 20 years to bring Manowar to  Canada&#44;  if this happens a third time&#44; its all over.&quot; &nbsp;The band resumed playing  and  after a few more songs&#44; the audience started moshing again. &nbsp;The same  guy  go lifted into the air&#44; but this time the singer pointed him out to the  security&#44; who went and grabbed him and escorted him out of the building.  The band resumed playing and finished most of their set. &nbsp;Then towards  the  end of the set they stopped again&#44; so bassist Joey DeMaio could give a  speech  (yes a speech) to the audience. &nbsp;In it&#44; he explained that all those  rumours  that Manowar didn&#8217;t like Toronto or didn&#8217;t like Canada weren&#8217;t true.  The  reason it has taken Manowar 20 years to come into Canada was because all  the  promoters and people that run the radio stations have VERY TINY BALLS!  &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Aside from the attitude problems&#44; Manowar did play an immaculate&#44;  though  somewhat overly loud&#44; set. &nbsp;Too bad it was not 1983 anymore&#44; when their  sound  could still be considered cutting edge. &nbsp;Truly Manowar are the&quot;RAGING  BULL&quot;  of metal.  &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;The opening act&#44; Immortal&#44; was the epitome of class when they  performed  and their guitarist sounded just as heavy using a single Marshall cab as  Manowar  did using their entire huge sound system. &nbsp;Plus the guitarist in Manowar  breathed  fire&#44; whilst Manowar only breathered hot air. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4></p>
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		<item>
		<title>EMERGENCY!!! I need to switch from Wellbutrin to Parnate quickly&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://maois101.org/tranylcypromine-parnate/emergency-i-need-to-switch-from-wellbutrin-to-parnate-quickly-3690.html</link>
		<comments>http://maois101.org/tranylcypromine-parnate/emergency-i-need-to-switch-from-wellbutrin-to-parnate-quickly-3690.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 05 May 2002 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tranylcypromine (Parnate)]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://maois.org/uncategorized/emergency-i-need-to-switch-from-wellbutrin-to-parnate-quickly-3690.html</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question:
Hi&#44; I have been taking Wellbutrin for several months and it&#8217;s no  longer adequate to relieve depression. &#160;I have been taking a 400 mg  total daily dose.  I have taken Parnate in the past and&#44; despite the potential dangers  and the hesitant doctors&#44; it&#8217;s still the best of them all&#44; esp. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h4><strong>Question:</strong></h4>
<p>Hi&#44; I have been taking Wellbutrin for several months and it&#8217;s no  longer adequate to relieve depression. &nbsp;I have been taking a 400 mg  total daily dose.  I have taken Parnate in the past and&#44; despite the potential dangers  and the hesitant doctors&#44; it&#8217;s still the best of them all&#44; esp. if you  have a lot of trouble with anergia.  My doctor authorized me to take Parnate once again but she wants me to  wait 10 days and I don&#8217;t think I am going to be able to do it&#44;  friends.  When I get off meds&#44; I turn into a RUTABAGA. &nbsp;I can feel this  happening already&#44; even though I d/c&#8217;d the Wellbutrin only 3 days ago.  Do I REALLY need to wait 10 days or is this just a real conservative  measure? &nbsp;Does anyone know definitively how shortly I can take the  Parnate after ending Wellbutrin without horrendous complications?  If someone knows DEFINITIVELY&#44; please let me know. &nbsp;I don&#8217;t want to  end up in triage.  Thanks friends. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; Hi&#44; I have been taking Wellbutrin for several months and it&#8217;s no  &gt; longer adequate to relieve depression. &nbsp;I have been taking a 400 mg  &gt; total daily dose.  &gt; I have taken Parnate in the past and&#44; despite the potential dangers  &gt; and the hesitant doctors&#44; it&#8217;s still the best of them all&#44; esp. if you  &gt; have a lot of trouble with anergia.  &gt; My doctor authorized me to take Parnate once again but she wants me to  &gt; wait 10 days and I don&#8217;t think I am going to be able to do it&#44;  &gt; friends.  &gt; When I get off meds&#44; I turn into a RUTABAGA. &nbsp;I can feel this  &gt; happening already&#44; even though I d/c&#8217;d the Wellbutrin only 3 days ago.  &gt; Do I REALLY need to wait 10 days or is this just a real conservative  &gt; measure? &nbsp;Does anyone know definitively how shortly I can take the  &gt; Parnate after ending Wellbutrin without horrendous complications?  &gt; If someone knows DEFINITIVELY&#44; please let me know. &nbsp;I don&#8217;t want to  &gt; end up in triage.  &gt; Thanks friends. </p>
<p>Why don&#8217;t you try something less dangerous?  B </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Five Weeks to Psychosis on Prozac</title>
		<link>http://maois101.org/phenelzine-nardil/five-weeks-to-psychosis-on-prozac-7612.html</link>
		<comments>http://maois101.org/phenelzine-nardil/five-weeks-to-psychosis-on-prozac-7612.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 May 2002 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Phenelzine (Nardil)]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://maois.org/uncategorized/five-weeks-to-psychosis-on-prozac-7612.html</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question:
I had the same experience with nardil.  I was never psychotic or &#34;schizoaffective&#34; before.  The problem was the too high of dose.  BUT&#44; now I am taking PROZAC for depression and it is helping me.  I am working part time for the first time since I became ill.  I am [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h4><strong>Question:</strong></h4>
<p>I had the same experience with nardil.  I was never psychotic or &quot;schizoaffective&quot; before.  The problem was the too high of dose.  BUT&#44; now I am taking PROZAC for depression and it is helping me.  I am working part time for the first time since I became ill.  I am also taking zyprexa&#44; which is helping me sleep&#44; (sometimes WITH  my fiance)&#44; and not so much worrying&#44; racing or wierd thoughts.  So&#44; I don&#8217;t think Prozac is bad for everyone. &nbsp;This is the second time  it has helped me with depression&#44; i.e.&quot;thinking of everything negatively&quot;.  That&#8217;s my testimony. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; relax dood.. just flipping you shit.. </p>
<p>How funny  B </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>&gt; You got it.  &gt; Every support ng has a clique of parasites whose participation  &gt; consists solely of harassing those engaging in on topic discussions&#44;  &gt; Their posts are either petty remarks critquing the form of a post and  &gt; or personal attack on the poster&#44; never ever posts ON TOPIC of a  &gt; substantive nature.  &gt; Called trolls.  &gt; KILLFILE and ignore them. . </p>
<p>Thanks for your words.  I dont understand why these people waste time just bothering other people  and partecipate in a group that they obviously have no interest in .  I mean&#44; do they have a life? It looks like they don&#8217;t.  B </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; &gt; I thought cross-posting to and from different kind of newsgroups > was not the reason why they started alt.support.schizofrenia. > Btw&#44; is it not forbidden in the FAQ ? > Berty  &gt; again&#44; I am writing in THIS ng. so&#44; what about cross whatever?  &gt; please&#44; let me know  &gt; B </p>
<p>You are sending your posts to :  alt.support.schizophrenia&#44; alt.support.anxiety-panic&#44;  alt.support.attn-deficit&#44; alt.support.schizoaffective&#44;  alt.support.depression.manic&#44; alt.support.depression.medication&#44;  alt.support.social-phobia&#44; alt.support.depression.teens  That is called cross posting.  When someone responds to your post&#44; then the answer is also  readable in those other newsgroups.  Berty </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
</p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> &gt; I thought cross-posting to and from different kind of newsgroups > &gt; was not the reason why they started alt.support.schizofrenia. > &gt; Btw&#44; is it not forbidden in the FAQ ? > &gt; Berty > again&#44; I am writing in THIS ng. so&#44; what about cross whatever? > please&#44; let me know > B  &gt; You are sending your posts to :  &gt; alt.support.schizophrenia&#44; alt.support.anxiety-panic&#44;  &gt; alt.support.attn-deficit&#44; alt.support.schizoaffective&#44;  &gt; alt.support.depression.manic&#44; alt.support.depression.medication&#44;  &gt; alt.support.social-phobia&#44; alt.support.depression.teens  &gt; That is called cross posting.  &gt; When someone responds to your post&#44; then the answer is also  &gt; readable in those other newsgroups.  &gt; Berty </p>
<p>It is NOT TRUE!!!  I am sending my post only to the group related to the issue.  Stop to break my balls&#44; and do something with your life.  B </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>- Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> You are sending your posts to : > alt.support.schizophrenia&#44; alt.support.anxiety-panic&#44; > alt.support.attn-deficit&#44; alt.support.schizoaffective&#44; > alt.support.depression.manic&#44; alt.support.depression.medication&#44; > alt.support.social-phobia&#44; alt.support.depression.teens > That is called cross posting. > When someone responds to your post&#44; then the answer is also > readable in those other newsgroups. > Berty  &gt;It is NOT TRUE!!!  &gt;I am sending my post only to the group related to the issue.  &gt;Stop to break my balls&#44; and do something with your life.  &gt;B </p>
<p>No you are sending it to all the groups claimed. Here is the header  for your post. Please learn how to trim headers&#44; if for no other  reason than many servers will delete everything crossposted to more  than a few groups. By crossposting to so many groups you are are  restricting your audience.  Newsgroups: alt.support.schizophrenia&#44;alt.support.anxiety-panic&#44;alt.support.attn-defici t&#44;alt.support.schizoaffective&#44;alt.support.depression.manic&#44;alt.support.depr ession.medication&#44;alt.support.social-phobia&#44;alt.support.depression.teens&#44;al t.support.foster-parents  Lines: 33  X-Priority: 3  X-MSMail-Priority: Normal  X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2600.0000  X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2600.0000  NNTP-Posting-Host: 213.104.236.84  X-Trace: newsfep1-win.server.ntli.net 1020649995 213.104.236.84 (Mon&#44;  Organization: ntlworld News Service  Xref: &nbsp;alt.support.schizophrenia:45136  alt.support.anxiety-panic:276566 alt.support.attn-deficit:273439  alt.support.schizoaffective:3077 alt.support.depression.manic:210751  alt.support.depression.medication:101171  alt.support.social-phobia:70278 alt.support.depression.teens:14614  alt.support.foster-parents:850 </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
</p>
<p> &gt; No you are sending it to all the groups claimed. Here is the header  &gt; for your post. Please learn how to trim headers&#44; if for no other  &gt; reason than many servers will delete everything crossposted to more  &gt; than a few groups. By crossposting to so many groups you are are  &gt; restricting your audience. </p>
<p>I repeat the same apology to the other group: I didn&#8217;t notice that in the  address there was more than a group. I just sent the answer&#44; without  checking. I will be more careful in future.  B  &gt; Newsgroups: </p>
<p>alt.support.schizophrenia&#44;alt.support.anxiety-panic&#44;alt.support.attn-defici t  &#44;alt.support.schizoaffective&#44;alt.support.depression.manic&#44;alt.support.depre s  sion.medication&#44;alt.support.social-phobia&#44;alt.support.depression.teens&#44;alt. s  upport.foster-parents  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt; Lines: 33  &gt; X-Priority: 3  &gt; X-MSMail-Priority: Normal  &gt; X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2600.0000  &gt; X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2600.0000  &gt; NNTP-Posting-Host: 213.104.236.84  &gt; X-Trace: newsfep1-win.server.ntli.net 1020649995 213.104.236.84 (Mon&#44;  &gt; Organization: ntlworld News Service  &gt; Xref: &nbsp;alt.support.schizophrenia:45136  &gt; alt.support.anxiety-panic:276566 alt.support.attn-deficit:273439  &gt; alt.support.schizoaffective:3077 alt.support.depression.manic:210751  &gt; alt.support.depression.medication:101171  &gt; alt.support.social-phobia:70278 alt.support.depression.teens:14614  &gt; alt.support.foster-parents:850  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; You are a cross posting cross dresser. &nbsp;You&#8217;re also ugly and your mother  dresses  &gt; you funny. </p>
<p>I think that you have a huge problem&#8230;  Are you just envious because I can talk about my problems and other  people&#8217;s&#44; and what you can do is just bother other people with your petty  remarks without saying anything that counts?  Grow up  B </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>&gt; I thought cross-posting to and from different kind of newsgroups  &gt; was not the reason why they started alt.support.schizofrenia.  &gt; Btw&#44; is it not forbidden in the FAQ ?  &gt; Berty </p>
<p>again&#44; I am writing in THIS ng. so&#44; what about cross whatever?  please&#44; let me know  B </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>- Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Five Weeks to Psychosis on Prozac > Antidepressants > &nbsp;&quot;It was close to 2 years before I could laugh again.&quot; > My name is Amy. I started taking 20 mg. of Prozac in April&#44; 1992. My  &gt; &nbsp;doctor thought I was > depressed due to empty nest syndrome and menopause. > I had always been a very open and trusting person&#44; so I swallowed my first  &gt; &nbsp;capsule without > reading the insert in the bottle. I trusted my doctor. The first week I  &gt; &nbsp;noticed I was > sleeping less. I had been sleeping between 7 and 8 hours a night and now I  &gt; &nbsp;was sleeping > about 6 hours a night. But this did not concern me. I suddenly had a lot  &gt; &nbsp;to ponder. I > began ruminating on how people had done me wrong. . I first focused on my  &gt; &nbsp;3 cousins (whom > I had not seen in years). I thought they were betraying me behind my back.  &gt; &nbsp;To add to this > worry&#44; I began obsessing about incidents in history such as the  &gt; &nbsp;destruction of Cambodia > and Tibet by the Communists and the tragedy of the Holocaust. I sat at my  &gt; &nbsp;kitchen table > and cried for hours about this. At my part time job&#44; I felt that the other  &gt; &nbsp;employees were > taking advantage of me. I had never felt this way before and it seemed  &gt; &nbsp;like a revelation > to me. > By the 4th week on Prozac&#44; I was sleeping only 4 hours a night but it did  &gt; &nbsp;not concern me > because I had so many important things to think about. I would pick up a  &gt; &nbsp;book to read and > would think that there was some special message in there for me. I was  &gt; &nbsp;sure of this when > the printed matter on the page began jumping out at me. Nothing like this  &gt; &nbsp;had ever > happened to me before. I began to make a special effort to act normal  &gt; &nbsp;around people > because suddenly these people would appear to me as being unreal. I became  &gt; &nbsp;terrified that > they were unreal but I must not let them know this. During the next  &gt; &nbsp;several weeks I became > confused in my driving and would lose my sense of direction. I thought  &gt; &nbsp;that I could not > concentrate on my driving because I was so terrified of what else was  &gt; &nbsp;happening. I never > once suspected that it was the Prozac. > My husband of 28 years became concerned about me but I kept saying I&#8217;ll be  &gt; &nbsp;better as soon > as this Prozac takes effect. I told him none of my symptoms. I felt that  &gt; &nbsp;everything wrong > in the world was my problem and I must solve it. At no time in my life had  &gt; &nbsp;I ever thought > of suicide. It wasn&#8217;t as though I had ever thought of suicide and then  &gt; &nbsp;dismissed the idea. > It was just that the thought of suicide had never occurred to me. By my  &gt; &nbsp;9th week on Prozac > I felt suicidal. I went to my doctor and told him that I was going to kill  &gt; &nbsp;myself because > I could not endure this suffering. He immediately told me to discontinue  &gt; &nbsp;the Prozac and he > gave me some sleeping medication. I thought this meant that the Prozac had  &gt; &nbsp;not worked for > me and that I was having a nervous breakdown. The next day I began having  &gt; &nbsp;visual > hallucinations. I was so terrified that I went to my doctor in an  &gt; &nbsp;incoherent state. He put > me in the hospital and I was there for 3 weeks as an inpatient. My husband  &gt; &nbsp;visited me > every night after work. We both thought that I had a nervous breakdown. No  &gt; &nbsp;doctor told us > differently. I was given Thorazine and I began to sleep again. Then my  &gt; &nbsp;health insurance > ran out and I came back home. When I left the hospital&#44; I was told to see  &gt; &nbsp;a psychologist > once a week. The psychologist and I discussed my childhood. One day&#44; three  &gt; &nbsp;months later&#44; > my husband said Do you think the Prozac could have contributed to your  &gt; &nbsp;breakdown .No &#44; I > said&#44; Prozac is a drug that helps mental disturbances. It would not cause  &gt; &nbsp;mental > disturbance. > My husband found the insert to my bottle of Prozac. We began to read it.  &gt; &nbsp;We saw that > hallucinations&#44; depersonalization&#44; paranoia and confusion were all listed  &gt; &nbsp;as adverse > reactions. I still could not believe it so I sent for my hospital record.  &gt; &nbsp;I was amazed to > see that on the fourth day of my hospitalization the physician had written  &gt; &nbsp;Patient had > psychotic reaction to Prozac. These symptoms started after use. We  &gt; &nbsp;investigated this > matter but were never given a satisfactory answer for why the doctors kept  &gt; &nbsp;this a secret. > The saddest part of this story is that it took so long for me to  &gt; &nbsp;completely recover. It > was close to 2 years before I could laugh again. It was almost 4 years  &gt; &nbsp;before the idea of > forgiveness even began to stir in my soul. Now&#44; in my 6th year&#44; I am  &gt; &nbsp;completely recovered > and enjoying life again&#44; but I will never forget this trip through hell. > My husband&#44; children and I are now dedicated to warning others about the  &gt; &nbsp;dangers of > Prozac. > &#8212; > Psychiatry is to Science > as Astrology is to Astronomy  &gt; for many people prozac is a very goog opportunity to have a normal life&#44; so  &gt; please do not take the piss  &gt; B </p>
<p>I thought cross-posting to and from different kind of newsgroups  was not the reason why they started alt.support.schizofrenia.  Btw&#44; is it not forbidden in the FAQ ?  Berty </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; Five Weeks to Psychosis on Prozac  &gt; Antidepressants  &gt; &nbsp;&quot;It was close to 2 years before I could laugh again.&quot;  &gt; My name is Amy. I started taking 20 mg. of Prozac in April&#44; 1992. My </p>
<p>doctor thought I was  &gt; depressed due to empty nest syndrome and menopause.  &gt; I had always been a very open and trusting person&#44; so I swallowed my first  capsule without  &gt; reading the insert in the bottle. I trusted my doctor. The first week I  noticed I was  &gt; sleeping less. I had been sleeping between 7 and 8 hours a night and now I  was sleeping  &gt; about 6 hours a night. But this did not concern me. I suddenly had a lot  to ponder. I  &gt; began ruminating on how people had done me wrong. . I first focused on my  3 cousins (whom  &gt; I had not seen in years). I thought they were betraying me behind my back.  To add to this  &gt; worry&#44; I began obsessing about incidents in history such as the </p>
<p>destruction of Cambodia  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; and Tibet by the Communists and the tragedy of the Holocaust. I sat at my  kitchen table  &gt; and cried for hours about this. At my part time job&#44; I felt that the other  employees were  &gt; taking advantage of me. I had never felt this way before and it seemed  like a revelation  &gt; to me.  &gt; By the 4th week on Prozac&#44; I was sleeping only 4 hours a night but it did  not concern me  &gt; because I had so many important things to think about. I would pick up a  book to read and  &gt; would think that there was some special message in there for me. I was  sure of this when  &gt; the printed matter on the page began jumping out at me. Nothing like this  had ever  &gt; happened to me before. I began to make a special effort to act normal  around people  &gt; because suddenly these people would appear to me as being unreal. I became  terrified that  &gt; they were unreal but I must not let them know this. During the next </p>
<p>several weeks I became  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; confused in my driving and would lose my sense of direction. I thought  that I could not  &gt; concentrate on my driving because I was so terrified of what else was  happening. I never  &gt; once suspected that it was the Prozac.  &gt; My husband of 28 years became concerned about me but I kept saying I&#8217;ll be  better as soon  &gt; as this Prozac takes effect. I told him none of my symptoms. I felt that  everything wrong  &gt; in the world was my problem and I must solve it. At no time in my life had  I ever thought  &gt; of suicide. It wasn&#8217;t as though I had ever thought of suicide and then  dismissed the idea.  &gt; It was just that the thought of suicide had never occurred to me. By my  9th week on Prozac  &gt; I felt suicidal. I went to my doctor and told him that I was going to kill  myself because  &gt; I could not endure this suffering. He immediately told me to discontinue  the Prozac and he  &gt; gave me some sleeping medication. I thought this meant that the Prozac had  not worked for  &gt; me and that I was having a nervous breakdown. The next day I began having  visual  &gt; hallucinations. I was so terrified that I went to my doctor in an </p>
<p>incoherent state. He put  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; me in the hospital and I was there for 3 weeks as an inpatient. My husband  visited me  &gt; every night after work. We both thought that I had a nervous breakdown. No  doctor told us  &gt; differently. I was given Thorazine and I began to sleep again. Then my  health insurance  &gt; ran out and I came back home. When I left the hospital&#44; I was told to see  a psychologist  &gt; once a week. The psychologist and I discussed my childhood. One day&#44; three  months later&#44;  &gt; my husband said Do you think the Prozac could have contributed to your  breakdown .No &#44; I  &gt; said&#44; Prozac is a drug that helps mental disturbances. It would not cause  mental  &gt; disturbance.  &gt; My husband found the insert to my bottle of Prozac. We began to read it.  We saw that  &gt; hallucinations&#44; depersonalization&#44; paranoia and confusion were all listed  as adverse  &gt; reactions. I still could not believe it so I sent for my hospital record.  I was amazed to  &gt; see that on the fourth day of my hospitalization the physician had written  Patient had  &gt; psychotic reaction to Prozac. These symptoms started after use. We  investigated this  &gt; matter but were never given a satisfactory answer for why the doctors kept  this a secret.  &gt; The saddest part of this story is that it took so long for me to </p>
<p>completely recover. It  &gt; was close to 2 years before I could laugh again. It was almost 4 years  before the idea of  &gt; forgiveness even began to stir in my soul. Now&#44; in my 6th year&#44; I am </p>
<p>completely recovered  &gt; and enjoying life again&#44; but I will never forget this trip through hell.  &gt; My husband&#44; children and I are now dedicated to warning others about the  dangers of  &gt; Prozac.  &gt; &#8212;  &gt; Psychiatry is to Science  &gt; as Astrology is to Astronomy </p>
<p>for many people prozac is a very goog opportunity to have a normal life&#44; so  please do not take the piss  B </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>&gt; I thought cross-posting to and from different kind of newsgroups  &gt; was not the reason why they started alt.support.schizofrenia.  &gt; Btw&#44; is it not forbidden in the FAQ ?  &gt; Berty </p>
<p>again&#44; I am writing in THIS ng. so&#44; what about cross whatever?  please&#44; let me know  B </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; You are a cross posting cross dresser. &nbsp;You&#8217;re also ugly and your mother  dresses  &gt; you funny. </p>
<p>I think that you have a huge problem&#8230;  Are you just envious because I can talk about my problems and other  people&#8217;s&#44; and what you can do is just bother other people with your petty  remarks without saying anything that counts?  Grow up  B </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; relax dood.. just flipping you shit.. </p>
<p>How funny  B </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>&gt; You got it.  &gt; Every support ng has a clique of parasites whose participation  &gt; consists solely of harassing those engaging in on topic discussions&#44;  &gt; Their posts are either petty remarks critquing the form of a post and  &gt; or personal attack on the poster&#44; never ever posts ON TOPIC of a  &gt; substantive nature.  &gt; Called trolls.  &gt; KILLFILE and ignore them. . </p>
<p>Thanks for your words.  I dont understand why these people waste time just bothering other people  and partecipate in a group that they obviously have no interest in .  I mean&#44; do they have a life? It looks like they don&#8217;t.  B </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; &gt; I thought cross-posting to and from different kind of newsgroups > was not the reason why they started alt.support.schizofrenia. > Btw&#44; is it not forbidden in the FAQ ? > Berty  &gt; again&#44; I am writing in THIS ng. so&#44; what about cross whatever?  &gt; please&#44; let me know  &gt; B </p>
<p>You are sending your posts to :  alt.support.schizophrenia&#44; alt.support.anxiety-panic&#44;  alt.support.attn-deficit&#44; alt.support.schizoaffective&#44;  alt.support.depression.manic&#44; alt.support.depression.medication&#44;  alt.support.social-phobia&#44; alt.support.depression.teens  That is called cross posting.  When someone responds to your post&#44; then the answer is also  readable in those other newsgroups.  Berty </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
</p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> &gt; I thought cross-posting to and from different kind of newsgroups > &gt; was not the reason why they started alt.support.schizofrenia. > &gt; Btw&#44; is it not forbidden in the FAQ ? > &gt; Berty > again&#44; I am writing in THIS ng. so&#44; what about cross whatever? > please&#44; let me know > B  &gt; You are sending your posts to :  &gt; alt.support.schizophrenia&#44; alt.support.anxiety-panic&#44;  &gt; alt.support.attn-deficit&#44; alt.support.schizoaffective&#44;  &gt; alt.support.depression.manic&#44; alt.support.depression.medication&#44;  &gt; alt.support.social-phobia&#44; alt.support.depression.teens  &gt; That is called cross posting.  &gt; When someone responds to your post&#44; then the answer is also  &gt; readable in those other newsgroups.  &gt; Berty </p>
<p>It is NOT TRUE!!!  I am sending my post only to the group related to the issue.  Stop to break my balls&#44; and do something with your life.  B </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>- Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> You are sending your posts to : > alt.support.schizophrenia&#44; alt.support.anxiety-panic&#44; > alt.support.attn-deficit&#44; alt.support.schizoaffective&#44; > alt.support.depression.manic&#44; alt.support.depression.medication&#44; > alt.support.social-phobia&#44; alt.support.depression.teens > That is called cross posting. > When someone responds to your post&#44; then the answer is also > readable in those other newsgroups. > Berty  &gt;It is NOT TRUE!!!  &gt;I am sending my post only to the group related to the issue.  &gt;Stop to break my balls&#44; and do something with your life.  &gt;B </p>
<p>No you are sending it to all the groups claimed. Here is the header  for your post. Please learn how to trim headers&#44; if for no other  reason than many servers will delete everything crossposted to more  than a few groups. By crossposting to so many groups you are are  restricting your audience.  Newsgroups: alt.support.schizophrenia&#44;alt.support.anxiety-panic&#44;alt.support.attn-defici t&#44;alt.support.schizoaffective&#44;alt.support.depression.manic&#44;alt.support.depr ession.medication&#44;alt.support.social-phobia&#44;alt.support.depression.teens&#44;al t.support.foster-parents  Lines: 33  X-Priority: 3  X-MSMail-Priority: Normal  X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2600.0000  X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2600.0000  NNTP-Posting-Host: 213.104.236.84  X-Trace: newsfep1-win.server.ntli.net 1020649995 213.104.236.84 (Mon&#44;  Organization: ntlworld News Service  Xref: &nbsp;alt.support.schizophrenia:45136  alt.support.anxiety-panic:276566 alt.support.attn-deficit:273439  alt.support.schizoaffective:3077 alt.support.depression.manic:210751  alt.support.depression.medication:101171  alt.support.social-phobia:70278 alt.support.depression.teens:14614  alt.support.foster-parents:850 </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; You are a cross posting cross dresser. &nbsp;You&#8217;re also ugly and your mother  dresses  &gt; you funny. </p>
<p>I am sorry&#44; it is my fault&#44; I didn&#8217;t notice that in the reply address there  was more than one group. I just answered to the post but I didn&#8217;t check the  addresses. In other ngs I never had a problem like that&#44; I don&#8217;t understand  why people put more than one address. Anyway&#44; sorry for the mess.  B  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &quot;barbapic&quot; >&gt; I thought cross-posting to and from different kind of newsgroups >&gt; was not the reason why they started alt.support.schizofrenia. >&gt; Btw&#44; is it not forbidden in the FAQ ? >&gt; Berty >again&#44; I am writing in THIS ng. so&#44; what about cross whatever? >please&#44; let me know >B  &gt; &#8212;  &gt; Psychiatry is to Science  &gt; as Astrology is to Astronomy  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
</p>
<p> &gt; No you are sending it to all the groups claimed. Here is the header  &gt; for your post. Please learn how to trim headers&#44; if for no other  &gt; reason than many servers will delete everything crossposted to more  &gt; than a few groups. By crossposting to so many groups you are are  &gt; restricting your audience. </p>
<p>I repeat the same apology to the other group: I didn&#8217;t notice that in the  address there was more than a group. I just sent the answer&#44; without  checking. I will be more careful in future.  B  &gt; Newsgroups: </p>
<p>alt.support.schizophrenia&#44;alt.support.anxiety-panic&#44;alt.support.attn-defici t  &#44;alt.support.schizoaffective&#44;alt.support.depression.manic&#44;alt.support.depre s  sion.medication&#44;alt.support.social-phobia&#44;alt.support.depression.teens&#44;alt. s  upport.foster-parents  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text &#8211; &gt; Lines: 33  &gt; X-Priority: 3  &gt; X-MSMail-Priority: Normal  &gt; X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2600.0000  &gt; X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2600.0000  &gt; NNTP-Posting-Host: 213.104.236.84  &gt; X-Trace: newsfep1-win.server.ntli.net 1020649995 213.104.236.84 (Mon&#44;  &gt; Organization: ntlworld News Service  &gt; Xref: &nbsp;alt.support.schizophrenia:45136  &gt; alt.support.anxiety-panic:276566 alt.support.attn-deficit:273439  &gt; alt.support.schizoaffective:3077 alt.support.depression.manic:210751  &gt; alt.support.depression.medication:101171  &gt; alt.support.social-phobia:70278 alt.support.depression.teens:14614  &gt; alt.support.foster-parents:850  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>I had the same experience with nardil.  I was never psychotic or &quot;schizoaffective&quot; before.  The problem was the too high of dose.  BUT&#44; now I am taking PROZAC for depression and it is helping me.  I am working part time for the first time since I became ill.  I am also taking zyprexa&#44; which is helping me sleep&#44; (sometimes WITH  my fiance)&#44; and not so much worrying&#44; racing or wierd thoughts.  So&#44; I don&#8217;t think Prozac is bad for everyone. &nbsp;This is the second time  it has helped me with depression&#44; i.e.&quot;thinking of everything negatively&quot;.  That&#8217;s my testimony. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; Five Weeks to Psychosis on Prozac  &gt; Antidepressants  &gt; &nbsp;&quot;It was close to 2 years before I could laugh again.&quot;  &gt; My name is Amy. I started taking 20 mg. of Prozac in April&#44; 1992. My </p>
<p>doctor thought I was  &gt; depressed due to empty nest syndrome and menopause.  &gt; I had always been a very open and trusting person&#44; so I swallowed my first  capsule without  &gt; reading the insert in the bottle. I trusted my doctor. The first week I  noticed I was  &gt; sleeping less. I had been sleeping between 7 and 8 hours a night and now I  was sleeping  &gt; about 6 hours a night. But this did not concern me. I suddenly had a lot  to ponder. I  &gt; began ruminating on how people had done me wrong. . I first focused on my  3 cousins (whom  &gt; I had not seen in years). I thought they were betraying me behind my back.  To add to this  &gt; worry&#44; I began obsessing about incidents in history such as the </p>
<p>destruction of Cambodia  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; and Tibet by the Communists and the tragedy of the Holocaust. I sat at my  kitchen table  &gt; and cried for hours about this. At my part time job&#44; I felt that the other  employees were  &gt; taking advantage of me. I had never felt this way before and it seemed  like a revelation  &gt; to me.  &gt; By the 4th week on Prozac&#44; I was sleeping only 4 hours a night but it did  not concern me  &gt; because I had so many important things to think about. I would pick up a  book to read and  &gt; would think that there was some special message in there for me. I was  sure of this when  &gt; the printed matter on the page began jumping out at me. Nothing like this  had ever  &gt; happened to me before. I began to make a special effort to act normal  around people  &gt; because suddenly these people would appear to me as being unreal. I became  terrified that  &gt; they were unreal but I must not let them know this. During the next </p>
<p>several weeks I became  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; confused in my driving and would lose my sense of direction. I thought  that I could not  &gt; concentrate on my driving because I was so terrified of what else was  happening. I never  &gt; once suspected that it was the Prozac.  &gt; My husband of 28 years became concerned about me but I kept saying I&#8217;ll be  better as soon  &gt; as this Prozac takes effect. I told him none of my symptoms. I felt that  everything wrong  &gt; in the world was my problem and I must solve it. At no time in my life had  I ever thought  &gt; of suicide. It wasn&#8217;t as though I had ever thought of suicide and then  dismissed the idea.  &gt; It was just that the thought of suicide had never occurred to me. By my  9th week on Prozac  &gt; I felt suicidal. I went to my doctor and told him that I was going to kill  myself because  &gt; I could not endure this suffering. He immediately told me to discontinue  the Prozac and he  &gt; gave me some sleeping medication. I thought this meant that the Prozac had  not worked for  &gt; me and that I was having a nervous breakdown. The next day I began having  visual  &gt; hallucinations. I was so terrified that I went to my doctor in an </p>
<p>incoherent state. He put  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; me in the hospital and I was there for 3 weeks as an inpatient. My husband  visited me  &gt; every night after work. We both thought that I had a nervous breakdown. No  doctor told us  &gt; differently. I was given Thorazine and I began to sleep again. Then my  health insurance  &gt; ran out and I came back home. When I left the hospital&#44; I was told to see  a psychologist  &gt; once a week. The psychologist and I discussed my childhood. One day&#44; three  months later&#44;  &gt; my husband said Do you think the Prozac could have contributed to your  breakdown .No &#44; I  &gt; said&#44; Prozac is a drug that helps mental disturbances. It would not cause  mental  &gt; disturbance.  &gt; My husband found the insert to my bottle of Prozac. We began to read it.  We saw that  &gt; hallucinations&#44; depersonalization&#44; paranoia and confusion were all listed  as adverse  &gt; reactions. I still could not believe it so I sent for my hospital record.  I was amazed to  &gt; see that on the fourth day of my hospitalization the physician had written  Patient had  &gt; psychotic reaction to Prozac. These symptoms started after use. We  investigated this  &gt; matter but were never given a satisfactory answer for why the doctors kept  this a secret.  &gt; The saddest part of this story is that it took so long for me to </p>
<p>completely recover. It  &gt; was close to 2 years before I could laugh again. It was almost 4 years  before the idea of  &gt; forgiveness even began to stir in my soul. Now&#44; in my 6th year&#44; I am </p>
<p>completely recovered  &gt; and enjoying life again&#44; but I will never forget this trip through hell.  &gt; My husband&#44; children and I are now dedicated to warning others about the  dangers of  &gt; Prozac.  &gt; &#8212;  &gt; Psychiatry is to Science  &gt; as Astrology is to Astronomy </p>
<p>for many people prozac is a very goog opportunity to have a normal life&#44; so  please do not take the piss  B </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>- Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Five Weeks to Psychosis on Prozac > Antidepressants > &nbsp;&quot;It was close to 2 years before I could laugh again.&quot; > My name is Amy. I started taking 20 mg. of Prozac in April&#44; 1992. My  &gt; &nbsp;doctor thought I was > depressed due to empty nest syndrome and menopause. > I had always been a very open and trusting person&#44; so I swallowed my first  &gt; &nbsp;capsule without > reading the insert in the bottle. I trusted my doctor. The first week I  &gt; &nbsp;noticed I was > sleeping less. I had been sleeping between 7 and 8 hours a night and now I  &gt; &nbsp;was sleeping > about 6 hours a night. But this did not concern me. I suddenly had a lot  &gt; &nbsp;to ponder. I > began ruminating on how people had done me wrong. . I first focused on my  &gt; &nbsp;3 cousins (whom > I had not seen in years). I thought they were betraying me behind my back.  &gt; &nbsp;To add to this > worry&#44; I began obsessing about incidents in history such as the  &gt; &nbsp;destruction of Cambodia > and Tibet by the Communists and the tragedy of the Holocaust. I sat at my  &gt; &nbsp;kitchen table > and cried for hours about this. At my part time job&#44; I felt that the other  &gt; &nbsp;employees were > taking advantage of me. I had never felt this way before and it seemed  &gt; &nbsp;like a revelation > to me. > By the 4th week on Prozac&#44; I was sleeping only 4 hours a night but it did  &gt; &nbsp;not concern me > because I had so many important things to think about. I would pick up a  &gt; &nbsp;book to read and > would think that there was some special message in there for me. I was  &gt; &nbsp;sure of this when > the printed matter on the page began jumping out at me. Nothing like this  &gt; &nbsp;had ever > happened to me before. I began to make a special effort to act normal  &gt; &nbsp;around people > because suddenly these people would appear to me as being unreal. I became  &gt; &nbsp;terrified that > they were unreal but I must not let them know this. During the next  &gt; &nbsp;several weeks I became > confused in my driving and would lose my sense of direction. I thought  &gt; &nbsp;that I could not > concentrate on my driving because I was so terrified of what else was  &gt; &nbsp;happening. I never > once suspected that it was the Prozac. > My husband of 28 years became concerned about me but I kept saying I&#8217;ll be  &gt; &nbsp;better as soon > as this Prozac takes effect. I told him none of my symptoms. I felt that  &gt; &nbsp;everything wrong > in the world was my problem and I must solve it. At no time in my life had  &gt; &nbsp;I ever thought > of suicide. It wasn&#8217;t as though I had ever thought of suicide and then  &gt; &nbsp;dismissed the idea. > It was just that the thought of suicide had never occurred to me. By my  &gt; &nbsp;9th week on Prozac > I felt suicidal. I went to my doctor and told him that I was going to kill  &gt; &nbsp;myself because > I could not endure this suffering. He immediately told me to discontinue  &gt; &nbsp;the Prozac and he > gave me some sleeping medication. I thought this meant that the Prozac had  &gt; &nbsp;not worked for > me and that I was having a nervous breakdown. The next day I began having  &gt; &nbsp;visual > hallucinations. I was so terrified that I went to my doctor in an  &gt; &nbsp;incoherent state. He put > me in the hospital and I was there for 3 weeks as an inpatient. My husband  &gt; &nbsp;visited me > every night after work. We both thought that I had a nervous breakdown. No  &gt; &nbsp;doctor told us > differently. I was given Thorazine and I began to sleep again. Then my  &gt; &nbsp;health insurance > ran out and I came back home. When I left the hospital&#44; I was told to see  &gt; &nbsp;a psychologist > once a week. The psychologist and I discussed my childhood. One day&#44; three  &gt; &nbsp;months later&#44; > my husband said Do you think the Prozac could have contributed to your  &gt; &nbsp;breakdown .No &#44; I > said&#44; Prozac is a drug that helps mental disturbances. It would not cause  &gt; &nbsp;mental > disturbance. > My husband found the insert to my bottle of Prozac. We began to read it.  &gt; &nbsp;We saw that > hallucinations&#44; depersonalization&#44; paranoia and confusion were all listed  &gt; &nbsp;as adverse > reactions. I still could not believe it so I sent for my hospital record.  &gt; &nbsp;I was amazed to > see that on the fourth day of my hospitalization the physician had written  &gt; &nbsp;Patient had > psychotic reaction to Prozac. These symptoms started after use. We  &gt; &nbsp;investigated this > matter but were never given a satisfactory answer for why the doctors kept  &gt; &nbsp;this a secret. > The saddest part of this story is that it took so long for me to  &gt; &nbsp;completely recover. It > was close to 2 years before I could laugh again. It was almost 4 years  &gt; &nbsp;before the idea of > forgiveness even began to stir in my soul. Now&#44; in my 6th year&#44; I am  &gt; &nbsp;completely recovered > and enjoying life again&#44; but I will never forget this trip through hell. > My husband&#44; children and I are now dedicated to warning others about the  &gt; &nbsp;dangers of > Prozac. > &#8212; > Psychiatry is to Science > as Astrology is to Astronomy  &gt; for many people prozac is a very goog opportunity to have a normal life&#44; so  &gt; please do not take the piss  &gt; B </p>
<p>I thought cross-posting to and from different kind of newsgroups  was not the reason why they started alt.support.schizofrenia.  Btw&#44; is it not forbidden in the FAQ ?  Berty </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4></p>
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			<wfw:commentRss>http://maois101.org/phenelzine-nardil/five-weeks-to-psychosis-on-prozac-7612.html/feed</wfw:commentRss>
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		<item>
		<title>Should I take a MAOI?</title>
		<link>http://maois101.org/isocarboxazid-marplan/should-i-take-a-maoi-6452.html</link>
		<comments>http://maois101.org/isocarboxazid-marplan/should-i-take-a-maoi-6452.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Apr 2002 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Isocarboxazid (Marplan)]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://maois.org/uncategorized/should-i-take-a-maoi-6452.html</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question:
I have tried paxil&#44; then effexor  my doc thinks i should try parnate  are there safer meds i should be trying first?  thanks in advance  cybercafe 

Response:
I saw your posts in the Manerix thread&#44; so I guess you&#8217;re already aware of  my experience with this product. The question is if [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h4><strong>Question:</strong></h4>
<p>I have tried paxil&#44; then effexor  my doc thinks i should try parnate  are there safer meds i should be trying first?  thanks in advance  cybercafe </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>I saw your posts in the Manerix thread&#44; so I guess you&#8217;re already aware of  my experience with this product. The question is if it is available where  you are.  What about Parnate? Is it reversible? Does it affect the same  neurotransmitters? If it&#8217;s easier for you to find&#44; why not try it?  If SSRIs didn&#8217;t work for you and your depression is rather atypical&#44; MAOIs  can be a good choice. </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; I have tried paxil&#44; then effexor  &gt; my doc thinks i should try parnate  &gt; are there safer meds i should be trying first?  &gt; thanks in advance  &gt; cybercafe  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>my doc said the worst thing i have to fear from a MAOI in all likelihood is  a headache&#8230;. &nbsp;how accurate does that sound?  how bad is a hypotensive crisis likely to be ?  i hear moclobemide isn&#8217;t as affective and nardil causes light-headedness  because all the blood goes to your feet  oh i&#8217;m bipolar type II (mainly depression&#44; some hypomania) btw </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; I saw your posts in the Manerix thread&#44; so I guess you&#8217;re already aware of  &gt; my experience with this product. The question is if it is available where  &gt; you are.  &gt; What about Parnate? Is it reversible? Does it affect the same  &gt; neurotransmitters? If it&#8217;s easier for you to find&#44; why not try it?  &gt; If SSRIs didn&#8217;t work for you and your depression is rather atypical&#44; MAOIs  &gt; can be a good choice.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; my doc said the worst thing i have to fear from a MAOI in all likelihood  is  &gt; a headache&#8230;. &nbsp;how accurate does that sound? </p>
<p>That&#44; and some insomnia&#44; but the great thing is as soon as your morning pill  takes effect&#44; you don&#8217;t feel like you hadn&#8217;t much sleep. It&#8217;s like I needed  less sleep now. But maybe I just could stop drinking coffee.  &gt; how bad is a hypotensive crisis likely to be ? </p>
<p>As far as I know&#44; MAOIs rather tend to induce hypertension&#44; not hypotension.  &gt; i hear moclobemide isn&#8217;t as affective and nardil causes light-headedness  &gt; because all the blood goes to your feet </p>
<p>If Parnate is more effective than Manerix&#44; it must very effective. Besides&#44;  I did a little search&#44; and side effects also seem to be heavier. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Oh&#44; and while we&#8217;re at it&#44; if that matters to you&#44; Manerix as a very  positive effect on my libido&#8230; Wish I had a girlfriend right now&#44; she would  find me rather&#8230; let&#8217;s say&#44; intense? </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; my doc said the worst thing i have to fear from a MAOI in all likelihood  is  &gt; a headache&#8230;. &nbsp;how accurate does that sound?  &gt; how bad is a hypotensive crisis likely to be ?  &gt; i hear moclobemide isn&#8217;t as affective and nardil causes light-headedness  &gt; because all the blood goes to your feet  &gt; oh i&#8217;m bipolar type II (mainly depression&#44; some hypomania) btw  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Tranylcypromine (Parnate) is very effective&#44; typically more so than  moclobemide (Manerix). They are technically different classes of drug. The  former is &#8216;irreversible&#8217; and nonselective&#44; inhibiting MAOI type A and B&#44;  whereas the latter is a RIMA (Reversible Inhibitor of Monoamine oxidase  type-A). Have a look at this page:  http://www.biopsychiatry.com/tranylmoc.htm  Tranylcypromine has a tendency to induce hypertensive crises more often than  the other nonselective&#44; irreversible MAOI-type drugs (isocarboxazid&#44;  phenelzine). More of a common concern than the hypertensive crises that  could afflict you if you consume too much tyramine&#44; is the tendency for the  MAOIs to induce hypotension. This is common amongst these drugs&#44; and not  solely limited to phenelzine (Nardil). However&#44; the orthostatic hypotensive  effects of the MAOIs appear in the majority of patients to resolve and are  surprisingly replaced by significant but asymptomatic and transient  increases in blood pressure later on.  As for how bad the hypertensive crises are likely to be&#44; it all depends on  how much tyramine you consume. It takes only a small quantity of cheese but  a large quantity of wine or beer to precipitate a hypertensive crisis. The  rule is simply to avoid these foods altogether. You should not experience  much in the way of symptoms if you stick to the diet.  Moclobemide might well be worth trying. If it works&#44; you don&#8217;t have the  dietary restrictions&#44; even though you are advised to be wary of consuming  too much pressor amine-containing food.  I&#8217;m interested to know why you are thinking about MAOI-related drugs after  having tried so few others. You may be taking on a life of very boring meals  if you decide this early in the game to take Parnate. If you are an anxious  insomniac type of person&#44; there may well be more tolerable drugs than the  rather activating Parnate. They would certainly be easier to take in the  long term&#44; although I admit that there are few drugs that are as effective  for severe depression than Parnate.  Hope this helps&#44;  Vitriholic </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; my doc said the worst thing i have to fear from a MAOI in all likelihood  is  &gt; a headache&#8230;. &nbsp;how accurate does that sound?  &gt; how bad is a hypotensive crisis likely to be ?  &gt; i hear moclobemide isn&#8217;t as affective and nardil causes light-headedness  &gt; because all the blood goes to your feet  &gt; oh i&#8217;m bipolar type II (mainly depression&#44; some hypomania) btw > I saw your posts in the Manerix thread&#44; so I guess you&#8217;re already aware  of > my experience with this product. The question is if it is available  where > you are. > What about Parnate? Is it reversible? Does it affect the same > neurotransmitters? If it&#8217;s easier for you to find&#44; why not try it? > If SSRIs didn&#8217;t work for you and your depression is rather atypical&#44;  MAOIs > can be a good choice.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>I&#8217;ve been on Parnate for several months now. &nbsp;After trying more  anti-depressants than I can count in the other groups my doctor suggested I  try an MAOI. &nbsp;This is not an idle decision &#8211; the diet is very important!  In general&#44; MAOI&#8217;s lower your blood pressure. &nbsp;In fact I get my blood  pressure checked frequently and my doctor is always asking if I feel dizzy  upon rising to make sure it doesn&#8217;t go too low. &nbsp;It&#8217;s a good way to make  sure you&#8217;re not taking too much too. &nbsp;However&#44; when you ingest foods  containing tyramine your blood pressure will rise. &nbsp;If you ingest too much  you will have a &quot;hypertensive episode&quot;. &nbsp;Any doctor that prescribes an MAOI  should also prescribe an emergency pill to counter the effects of rapidly  rising blood pressure. &nbsp;If left unchecked you can go into cardiac arrest and  possibly die. &nbsp;So the repercussions are very serious. &nbsp;My doctor gave me  thorazine as a counter drug. &nbsp;I only take it if I have an episode. &nbsp;This has  happened to me twice. &nbsp;The symptoms (for most people) are migraine first.  This is the only time in my life I have had a serious migraine. &nbsp;Both times  the pain was so intense I felt like crying. &nbsp;It comes on extremely fast and  is severe. &nbsp;Taking the thorazine greatly helped. &nbsp;Within an hour it felt  like a normal headache again. &nbsp;I was tired for about 24-48 hours and  headachy for a couple weeks on and off after each attack. &nbsp;Both times were  caused by accidentally eating something in a restaurant. &nbsp;(The first time  was clams in stew and I later called the restaurant and found out they were  smoked&#44; canned clams. &nbsp;The second time I ate some Pho soup and it had  anchovy paste in it &#8211; I had no idea.)  The side-effects in general aren&#8217;t too bad. &nbsp;It makes it difficult to sleep&#44;  but I take trazadone or klonopin for that. &nbsp;And it&#8217;s also important for me  to take my first dose at around the same time every day or I feel dizzy and  just kind of out of it and by the time I remember to take it if I&#8217;m late it  takes an hour or two to feel normal again. &nbsp;I take a very high dose though.  I am not bi-polar but have been diagnosed as having treatment resistant  depression. &nbsp;For those with TRD they sometimes suggest taking a dose up to  130mg. &nbsp;A normal dose only goes up to 60mg. &nbsp;I take 100mg.  So&#44; the bottom line is &#8211; these are my experiences&#44; others may have slightly  different reactions. &nbsp;I have heard that headache can be a possible  side-effect&#44; but other that after my migraine I have not had that. &nbsp;The most  important thing I can say is that it is crucial to learn what foods contain  tyramine and stick to the diet religiously. &nbsp;It&#8217;s not quite as restrictive  as it used to be. &nbsp;If you look into it make sure you are looking at lists  after 1996. &nbsp;They redid the lists and made them less restrictive. &nbsp;For  example&#44; mozzarella cheese and other fresh cheeses (like chevre&#44; montrachet&#44;  cream cheese&#44; etc.) are okay &#8211; you really have to avoid aged cheeses. &nbsp;I can  eat pizza still&#44; I just have to make sure it made by someone who doesn&#8217;t add  parmesan or mix the mozzarella with other cheeses. &nbsp;You&#8217;ll find you are  often asking about the ingredients in items when you eat out.  Well&#44; kind of wordy &#8211; but I hope that helps!  -Jessica </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; my doc said the worst thing i have to fear from a MAOI in all likelihood  is  &gt; a headache&#8230;. &nbsp;how accurate does that sound?  &gt; how bad is a hypotensive crisis likely to be ?  &gt; i hear moclobemide isn&#8217;t as affective and nardil causes light-headedness  &gt; because all the blood goes to your feet  &gt; oh i&#8217;m bipolar type II (mainly depression&#44; some hypomania) btw > I saw your posts in the Manerix thread&#44; so I guess you&#8217;re already aware  of > my experience with this product. The question is if it is available  where > you are. > What about Parnate? Is it reversible? Does it affect the same > neurotransmitters? If it&#8217;s easier for you to find&#44; why not try it? > If SSRIs didn&#8217;t work for you and your depression is rather atypical&#44;  MAOIs > can be a good choice.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>&gt; &gt; my doc said the worst thing i have to fear from a MAOI in all likelihood  &gt; is > a headache&#8230;. &nbsp;how accurate does that sound?  &gt; That&#44; and some insomnia&#44; but the great thing is as soon as your morning  pill  &gt; takes effect&#44; you don&#8217;t feel like you hadn&#8217;t much sleep. It&#8217;s like I  needed  &gt; less sleep now. But maybe I just could stop drinking coffee. </p>
<p>oh&#8230;. jessica says below that a hypertensive crisis is a possibility&#8230; ? > how bad is a hypotensive crisis likely to be ?  &gt; As far as I know&#44; MAOIs rather tend to induce hypertension&#44; not </p>
<p>hypotension.  sorry&#44; that&#8217;s what i meant&#44; hypertensive crisis > i hear moclobemide isn&#8217;t as affective and nardil causes light-headedness > because all the blood goes to your feet  &gt; If Parnate is more effective than Manerix&#44; it must very effective.  Besides&#44;  &gt; I did a little search&#44; and side effects also seem to be heavier. </p>
<p>damn&#8230; maybe i should take Manerix first&#8230;.  the reason why my doc wants me to try an MAOI is because he says effexor  works on certain dense norepenephrine and 5HT areas&#44; and if those areas  aren&#8217;t what needs targetting&#44; the next step is to move on to the midbrain  with an MAOI </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>&gt; Oh&#44; and while we&#8217;re at it&#44; if that matters to you&#44; Manerix as a very  &gt; positive effect on my libido&#8230; Wish I had a girlfriend right now&#44; she  would  &gt; find me rather&#8230; let&#8217;s say&#44; intense? </p>
<p>of course it matters to me&#8230; <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' />  &#8230; i&#8217;ve taken paxil before <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif' alt=':(' class='wp-smiley' />   now that you&#8217;re feeling okay&#44; it should be the easiest time for you to get a  GF&#44; no?  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> my doc said the worst thing i have to fear from a MAOI in all likelihood  &gt; is > a headache&#8230;. &nbsp;how accurate does that sound? > how bad is a hypotensive crisis likely to be ? > i hear moclobemide isn&#8217;t as affective and nardil causes light-headedness > because all the blood goes to your feet > oh i&#8217;m bipolar type II (mainly depression&#44; some hypomania) btw  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>&gt; Tranylcypromine (Parnate) is very effective&#44; typically more so than  &gt; moclobemide (Manerix). They are technically different classes of drug. The  &gt; former is &#8216;irreversible&#8217; and nonselective&#44; inhibiting MAOI type A and B&#44;  &gt; whereas the latter is a RIMA (Reversible Inhibitor of Monoamine oxidase  &gt; type-A). Have a look at this page: </p>
<p>in what sense is it irreversible?  &gt; solely limited to phenelzine (Nardil). However&#44; the orthostatic  hypotensive  &gt; effects of the MAOIs appear in the majority of patients to resolve and are  &gt; surprisingly replaced by significant but asymptomatic and transient  &gt; increases in blood pressure later on. </p>
<p>how much later are we talking here?  &gt; rule is simply to avoid these foods altogether. You should not experience  &gt; much in the way of symptoms if you stick to the diet. </p>
<p>of course my fear is that i eat something out where it is not obvious there  is cheese in the ingredients&#44; and then keel over dead <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif' alt=':(' class='wp-smiley' />   i just don&#8217;t know how realistic a scenario that is  &gt; Moclobemide might well be worth trying. If it works&#44; you don&#8217;t have the  &gt; dietary restrictions&#44; even though you are advised to be wary of consuming  &gt; too much pressor amine-containing food. </p>
<p>what&#8217;s a pressor amine?  &gt; having tried so few others. You may be taking on a life of very boring  meals  &gt; if you decide this early in the game to take Parnate. If you are an </p>
<p>anxious  my doc recommended it because it was his belief that if paxil and effexor  don&#8217;t work&#44; it&#8217;s time to try a different brain area (hence an MAOI)  i may have misunderstood&#44; but he also seemed to believe that the worst i can  expect from a hypertensive crisis is a bad headache.. the other symptoms  (death) are overstated  &gt; insomniac type of person&#44; there may well be more tolerable drugs than the  &gt; rather activating Parnate. They would certainly be easier to take in the  &gt; long term&#44; although I admit that there are few drugs that are as effective  &gt; for severe depression than Parnate. </p>
<p>no i sleep too much&#44; but you&#8217;re right&#44; i certainly do not want any diet  restrictions </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>&gt; of course my fear is that i eat something out where it is not obvious  there  &gt; is cheese in the ingredients&#44; and then keel over dead <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif' alt=':(' class='wp-smiley' />   &gt; i just don&#8217;t know how realistic a scenario that is </p>
<p>I actually allow myself some cheese&#8230; Even parmesan on my pasta! I just  blame myself if I get a headache after&#44; but it&#8217;s not that bad. From what I  read&#44; interaction is much worse with Parnate. If you like fresh cheese like  cottage or cream cheese&#44; you can have as much as you want&#44; since the  tyramide is produced in the aging process. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>I have a bit of parmesan too &#8211; it doesn&#8217;t seem to effect me if I don&#8217;t have  much.  RE: the keel over dead fear &#8211; you won&#8217;t instantly die!!! &nbsp;You will have  plenty of warning physically before you get to the point of heart attack.  If you take your emergency pill and/or call 911 you&#8217;ll be just fine.  -Jessica </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> of course my fear is that i eat something out where it is not obvious  &gt; there > is cheese in the ingredients&#44; and then keel over dead <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif' alt=':(' class='wp-smiley' />  > i just don&#8217;t know how realistic a scenario that is  &gt; I actually allow myself some cheese&#8230; Even parmesan on my pasta! I just  &gt; blame myself if I get a headache after&#44; but it&#8217;s not that bad. From what I  &gt; read&#44; interaction is much worse with Parnate. If you like fresh cheese  like  &gt; cottage or cream cheese&#44; you can have as much as you want&#44; since the  &gt; tyramide is produced in the aging process.  </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>&gt; &gt; of course my fear is that i eat something out where it is not obvious  &gt; there > is cheese in the ingredients&#44; and then keel over dead <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif' alt=':(' class='wp-smiley' />  > i just don&#8217;t know how realistic a scenario that is  &gt; I actually allow myself some cheese&#8230; Even parmesan on my pasta! I just  &gt; blame myself if I get a headache after&#44; but it&#8217;s not that bad. From what I  &gt; read&#44; interaction is much worse with Parnate. If you like fresh cheese  like  &gt; cottage or cream cheese&#44; you can have as much as you want&#44; since the  &gt; tyramide is produced in the aging process. </p>
<p>hmm.. so you&#8217;re taking manerix/moclobemide right? &nbsp;&#8230; yeah i think i&#8217;ll  push for that one.. though i think my doc said it only works for 2 out of 10  people whereas parnate works for like 10/10 people (i could be really  confused-misquoting here&#44; .. would appreciate input)  so wait a sec here&#8230;. is that the worst that can happen on manerix&#44; a  headache? &nbsp;&#8230; is there a chance of you accidentally eating something worse?  &#8230; like if you eat out all the time </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>&gt; RE: the keel over dead fear &#8211; you won&#8217;t instantly die!!! &nbsp;You will have  &gt; plenty of warning physically before you get to the point of heart attack.  &gt; If you take your emergency pill and/or call 911 you&#8217;ll be just fine. </p>
<p>thanks a lot for replying guys&#8230; i really appreciate the info <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' />   i guess i am just afraid of coming off weird to friends&#8230;..  like i wouldn&#8217;t want to have half of my dates cut short by me ending up in  the emergency ward &#8230;.  ummm&#8230;. after you take the thorazine you have to go to see a doc right? ..  to see if your heart has returned to normal?  why did my doc say something about cutting open the chest and sticking a  needle (norepenephrine) in the heart?  cheers  cybercafe </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; hmm.. so you&#8217;re taking manerix/moclobemide right? &nbsp;&#8230; yeah i think i&#8217;ll  &gt; push for that one.. though i think my doc said it only works for 2 out of  10  &gt; people whereas parnate works for like 10/10 people (i could be really  &gt; confused-misquoting here&#44; .. would appreciate input) </p>
<p>If it only work for 20% of people&#44; then I&#8217;m definitely in that 20%. The good  side is you will know very fast if it works or not. If you don&#8217;t notice any  change in the first week&#44; then you&#8217;ll know it doesn&#8217;t work for you. You  should feel better on the second day if it does.  &gt; so wait a sec here&#8230;. is that the worst that can happen on manerix&#44; a  &gt; headache? &nbsp;&#8230; is there a chance of you accidentally eating something  worse?  &gt; &#8230; like if you eat out all the time </p>
<p>It&#8217;s the worst I&#8217;ve experienced&#44; though sometimes I feel my heart beating  faster and I have some difficulty sleeping (could be coffee&#44; I drank a lot  of it this week). I also noticed some stiffening in my legs in the last few  days&#44; but it could be because I walked more than usual this week&#44; I&#8217;ve got  too get my shape back.  Go for fresh cheese and avoid preserved meat and alcohol&#44; especially red  wine&#44; beer&#44; and brown liquor (whisky&#44; brandy&#44; rhum&#44; etc&#8230;) I think I&#8217;ll cut  the coffee&#44; too.  All in all&#44; the positive outweighs greatly the negative points. (In my  case.)  Besides&#44; you should do a serious search on the long term effects of  non-reversible MAOIs like Parnate&#8230; High efficiency has a price. </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>I&#8217;m on Parnate&#44; haven&#8217;t tried Manerix.  I don&#8217;t understand your doctor &#8211; maybe he just wanted to let you know the  absolute worst case scenario. &nbsp;After you take the thorazine you don&#8217;t need  to see anyone. &nbsp;If you&#8217;re feeling better&#44; chances are your blood pressure is  returning to normal. &nbsp;I would recommend getting a home blood pressure kit (I  don&#8217;t have one yet&#44; but plan on purchasing an automatic one). &nbsp;It&#8217;s good to  have a baseline blood pressure measurement (I take mine every two weeks) and  it&#8217;s also a helpful diagnostic when you&#8217;re having an attack and after you  are feeling better.  It&#8217;s a little awkward when I eat at restaurants&#44; but it&#8217;s just like people  with food allergies &#8211; they have to ask about ingredients and occasionally  make special orders too. &nbsp;I just order simpler foods and ask for no cheese.  The hardest part for me is giving up my Mexican food with melted cheddar.  Mmmm. &nbsp;Also &#8211; I still eat ethnic&#44; but you have to be a bit more careful&#44;  especially with Asian foods. &nbsp;Again &#8211; you just need to know what you&#8217;re  eating.  You really shouldn&#8217;t be afraid of Parnate though. &nbsp;Like I said&#44; it&#8217;s like  having a food allergy. &nbsp;Definitely non-life-threatening.  Good luck&#44;  Jessica </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> RE: the keel over dead fear &#8211; you won&#8217;t instantly die!!! &nbsp;You will have > plenty of warning physically before you get to the point of heart  attack. > If you take your emergency pill and/or call 911 you&#8217;ll be just fine.  &gt; thanks a lot for replying guys&#8230; i really appreciate the info <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' />   &gt; i guess i am just afraid of coming off weird to friends&#8230;..  &gt; like i wouldn&#8217;t want to have half of my dates cut short by me ending up in  &gt; the emergency ward &#8230;.  &gt; ummm&#8230;. after you take the thorazine you have to go to see a doc right?  ..  &gt; to see if your heart has returned to normal?  &gt; why did my doc say something about cutting open the chest and sticking a  &gt; needle (norepenephrine) in the heart?  &gt; cheers  &gt; cybercafe  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>Hi&#44; you seem well informed about diet issues with MAOIs. Do you happen to  know if coffee contains tyramine&#44; or if cafeine has any bad interactions  with MAOIs? I&#8217;m beginning to wonder if my daily double espresso shot in the  morning is fully compatible with my Manerix (I know you&#8217;re on Parnate&#44; but  it&#8217;s the same food restrictions&#8230;) I think I&#8217;ll stop drinking coffee to see  if I can sleep better at night. </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>I&#8217;ve done a lot of research about diet restrictions and the latest  information. &nbsp;Caffeine is okay in moderation. &nbsp;1-2 cups or so if okay. &nbsp;I  have had double shots of espresso and been fine&#44; but I try not to have any  more than that. &nbsp;As for sleep &#8211; the caffeine in the coffee has the same  effect whether you&#8217;re on the med or not. &nbsp;So if it made you have trouble  sleeping before then it still will.  I have to remind you that my knowledge is Parnate based &#8211; I really don&#8217;t  know anything about Manerix. &nbsp;I know that Parnate causes trouble sleeping  and I take Trazadone to help me sleep. &nbsp;I also tried Klonopin which is  another &quot;clean&quot; sleeping aid. &nbsp;I doubt caffiene in the morning is going to  effect your sleep at night &#8211; it&#8217;s probably the med. &nbsp;Ask your doctor about  it.  -Jessica </p>
<p> &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -&gt; Hi&#44; you seem well informed about diet issues with MAOIs. Do you happen to  &gt; know if coffee contains tyramine&#44; or if cafeine has any bad interactions  &gt; with MAOIs? I&#8217;m beginning to wonder if my daily double espresso shot in  the  &gt; morning is fully compatible with my Manerix (I know you&#8217;re on Parnate&#44; but  &gt; it&#8217;s the same food restrictions&#8230;) I think I&#8217;ll stop drinking coffee to  see  &gt; if I can sleep better at night.  </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &#8211; Hide quoted text &#8212; Show quoted text -> Hi&#44; you seem well informed about diet issues with MAOIs. Do you > happen to know if coffee contains tyramine&#44; or if cafeine has any bad > interactions with MAOIs? I&#8217;m beginning to wonder if my daily double > espresso shot in the morning is fully compatible with my Manerix (I > know you&#8217;re on Parnate&#44; but it&#8217;s the same food restrictions&#8230;) I > think I&#8217;ll stop drinking coffee to see if I can sleep better at night.  &gt; Quit talking about Manerix as if it&#8217;s a real MAOI&#44; with the same food  &gt; restrictions. It&#8217;s a RIMA and it&#8217;s hardly comparable with irreversible  &gt; MAOI&#8217;s like Parnate or Nardil! I ate salami pizza&#8217;s while on moclobemide.  &gt; Wouldn&#8217;t take that risk with Parnate. Parnate worked -for a while- and  &gt; moclobemide did shit for me. Not even gave me side effects (which was very  &gt; pleasant&#44; by the way&#44; but still&#8230; I felt like taking a placebo). </p>
<p>Ooooh sorry&#8230; I&#8217;ll stop pretending to be in the same league as the big boys  taking real MAOIs with real diet restrictions&#8230; I&#8217;ll go back to the  kindergarden with the other Manerix kids. How did I dare to believe I was  worthy of the same side effects&#44; I&#8217;m so ashamed of myself&#8230; Maybe it&#8217;s time  I switch to something stronger&#44; like Life Savers or Werther&#8217;s Originals&#8230;  Do you think I could handle these? Any side effects?  &gt; &quot;Patients on tranylcypromine therapy should also be advised not to consume  &gt; excessive amounts of caffeine in any form (coffee&#44; tea&#44; cola drinks&#44; etc.)  &gt; because of possible enhanced effects of caffeine on the CNS.&quot;  &gt; No special warning for caffeine and moclobemide&#8230; </p>
<p>Ok&#44; so I can eat anything with my baby pills&#44; great. </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p>  &gt; I&#8217;ve done a lot of research about diet restrictions and the latest  &gt; information. &nbsp;Caffeine is okay in moderation. &nbsp;1-2 cups or so if okay. &nbsp;I  &gt; have had double shots of espresso and been fine&#44; but I try not to have any  &gt; more than that. &nbsp;As for sleep &#8211; the caffeine in the coffee has the same  &gt; effect whether you&#8217;re on the med or not. &nbsp;So if it made you have trouble  &gt; sleeping before then it still will. </p>
<p>Maybe it&#8217;s just the combination of both&#8230; I&#8217;ll cut the coffey and see the  results.  &gt; I have to remind you that my knowledge is Parnate based &#8211; I really don&#8217;t  &gt; know anything about Manerix. &nbsp;I know that Parnate causes trouble sleeping  &gt; and I take Trazadone to help me sleep. &nbsp;I also tried Klonopin which is  &gt; another &quot;clean&quot; sleeping aid. &nbsp;I doubt caffiene in the morning is going to  &gt; effect your sleep at night &#8211; it&#8217;s probably the med. &nbsp;Ask your doctor about  &gt; it. </p>
<p>Yeah&#44; I see him today. </p>
</p>
<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4>
<p> &gt; Ooooh sorry&#8230; I&#8217;ll stop pretending to be in the same league as the big boys  &gt; taking real MAOIs with real diet restrictions&#8230; I&#8217;ll go back to the  &gt; kindergarden with the other Manerix kids. How did I dare to believe I was  &gt; worthy of the same side effects&#44; I&#8217;m so ashamed of myself&#8230; Maybe it&#8217;s time  &gt; I switch to something stronger&#44; like Life Savers or Werther&#8217;s Originals&#8230;  &gt; Do you think I could handle these? Any side effects? </p>
<p> <img src='http://maois101.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' />  &nbsp;I wouldn&#8217;t worry about it&#44; I&#8217;ve taken both types&#8230; phenelzine&#44;  a big&#44; bad nasty ol&#8217; MAOI&#44; did bugger all for me except making me  watch my diet/blood pressure&#44; but moclobemide&#44; which didn&#8217;t even  give me a hard time with cheese &amp; marmite sarnies washed down with  yeasty lager actually worked for a while (albeit briefly)  Chris. </p>
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<h4><strong>Response:</strong></h4></p>
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